73 monte carlo build up.

Hello everyone it has been a good bit since i have posted anything. Sorry about that , I have been hard at work working on my 73 monte carlo that i got back in may. I planned all along to start a work log but life just got in the way. So here it is my official work log for my monte carlo build up.


I have had this car since May, 15, 2011. Im very excited about it, I have done a good bit on the car so far in such a short amount of time. When i say a good bit i think its a good bit for someone who is doing this by himself with no help and basic knowledge of cars. I don't ever plan on restoring the car back to its original part completely. I want this to be a one of a kind something that I put together and built my self. It has been a child hood dream come reality. Now for some pictures of when I got it in may.

She looks gorgeous right?Wrong that is what I thought as well. i got her home and lets just say at some closer inspection most of the truck was actually rotted away and so are the wheel wells and some parts of the cab. This car was restored and fixed once back in the 90s. more pics of what it used to look like tomorrow. I will update with more of what I have done tomorrow.

you have a hell of a lot of work ahead of you. but having btdt, i can say that there are few things that are more satisfying than completing a project like this.

good luck and keep the pics coming.

The first thing i did when I got the car was rip the fender/hood off of it. I stripped the whole front end off of it. The core support and bushing had to be replaced. I then started the sanding process. Then it was primed. Sanding a car sucks I wouldn't recommend it. Here are a few pics of what I did.

front clip off.

I used a paint remover on this fender. That stuff is very messy and tarnished the metal a good bit. But it got the paint off rather quickly.

then everything got primied.

Here is the state the car is currently in.

If you look closely you can see that the ac is completely gone. I dont need a ac so i ripped it out.

patched a few holes in the cab.

i need to patch a lot more.

ill post more pictures this upcoming week end. hope you guys enjoy seeing my rust bucket.

Looks like someone took it to a demolition derby....

Wouldn't it be better to just cut out the rusted parts and put a new plate in?

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Originally Posted by Fuganater

Wouldn't it be better to just cut out the rusted parts and put a new plate in?

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I would hope that is what he was doing. Cutting out the rot, and welding in new metal. If you plate over rust, you'll be in worse shape in a couple years.

Car is looking good Blaze. Seems like you are doing good so far! Don't forget the three most important areas when you are replacing parts! Steering components (Tie rod ends, etc), brakes (Lines, hoses, brake cylinders, calipers, pads, shoes, rotors, drums, and a master cylinder flush), and fuel lines/filter. Although, you may consider a tank fuel tank, and straps while you are at it. Working on these old cars stirs every last piece of crap in the tank. You'll be replacing fuel filters once a week, for the rest of your life...

If you need any advice on working around the drive train, post up. Old GM is what I do...:)

Replacing fuel filters...

We had to do that every so often on our pickup because both tanks were empty when some kids decided to siphon gas; in revenge, they poured sand into a tank.
Nobody knew it had happened until they filled up the tanks the following morning.

i had to put a new tank in the car but from what i can tell by moving it around the block the brakes are fine the fuel lines aren't rotted or worn. just so you guys know i am cutting the old rust away and laying new metal over it.

Something to consider is that brake, and fuel lines can, and often do rot from the inside out. I've replaced lines that look fine on the outside, but if you hold a light up to the side wall, and look inside you see pin holes from internal rot.

I'd be willing to gamble with hard lines, but I would replace soft brake hoses, calipers, cylinders, shoes/pads, and if you can find a place to do it turn the rotors/drums. I'd rather turn old iron, then deal with new parts.

You should easily be able to replace these parts around, or under $100.

Just don't forget the steering. Check the TRE's for tightness, and the steering box for abnormal play.

All these are key points to my truck build. I ended up replacing one TRE, and so far I have cleaned the master cylinder on the brakes. This weekend I'm running a passenger front hardline, and need to get some large line for the rear. Fuel lines are getting redone with 1/2, and 3/8 aluminum. I'll run the most ghetto looking junk around, but if my SO needs to run down to the store, I want to make sure she'll get there safely.:D

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Originally Posted by altec

Something to consider is that brake, and fuel lines can, and often do rot from the inside out. I've replaced lines that look fine on the outside, but if you hold a light up to the side wall, and look inside you see pin holes from internal rot.

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that's very true. i had an old golf that needed a hard line replaced and when i touched it, the one next to it broke and i could see all the rot inside. long story short, i ended up having to replace all the hardlines.

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Originally Posted by altec

I'd be willing to gamble with hard lines, but I would replace soft brake hoses, calipers, cylinders, shoes/pads, and if you can find a place to do it turn the rotors/drums. I'd rather turn old iron, then deal with new parts.

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Hah when i had my hilariously small toyota echo.


Turned out to be cheaper to buy new rotors for that particular car, then what the guy normally charged to turn them.

I think it was more like a large R/C car then a real automobile.

How did you get in my shop?

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Originally Posted by Twigsoffury

Hah when i had my hilariously small toyota echo.


Turned out to be cheaper to buy new rotors for that particular car, then what the guy normally charged to turn them.

I think it was more like a large R/C car then a real automobile.

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Yep. Hard as hell to find places to turn these days because it is more cost effective to just replace. Sadly, a lot of the new parts are very good quality. If I'm working on my own stuff, I try to get my known-good pieces turned. Nothing sucks more then shuddering from crappy rotors. It's like riding around on Godzillas personal massager.

Yeah, bleach can't get that mental picture out! :P

Holy floorpan batman. Needs some work but you can do it!

I have not done to much that you can actully see. Right now im working on patching the passenger wheel well. Then i will move over to the driver side. I am starting to use body filler on some of the car. you can see a few spot in the pictures i have.

This week im hoping to get the cab all patched up so i can drop the tank next eek and fix the trunk.

Liquid lead might be a better alternative then bondo in your situation.

It's like reverse 31:1 ratio soldering on computers.

i don't have a torch and i don't like messing with lead.

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Originally Posted by blaze15301

i don't have a torch and i don't like messing with lead.

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now why the hell not?

and come on the roman's used to drink it like soda pop LOL.

Lead work on anything that didn't have it from the factory doesn't make much sense to me, but I wouldn't worry about working with it. Wear gloves, and don't breath in the fumes. Lead isn't as bad as it is made out to be. Most people who get lead poisoning are stupid kids who eat the colorful potato chips...

Umm I gotta go with the rest of the crowd here, I am not sure where your located but the first time the weather starts changing bondo starts cracking and falling off.

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Originally Posted by Snowman

Umm I gotta go with the rest of the crowd here, I am not sure where your located but the first time the weather starts changing bondo starts cracking and falling off.

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not to mention anyone with a magnet is gonna know there is bondo every where over the car.


You can punch the quarter panel and make bondo shoot out the majority of the time (seen it happen on accident, took out a huge chunk of paint to haha) if its not attached 100%

I personally think lead is easier to work then bondo is. with a hell of a lot less mess, its stronger.. will last longer, has a smoother finished look and you can do lots of creative things with lead that isn't possible with bondo.

theres a reason they call 'em Lead Sleds.

But anyways its a really awesome way to just cut out the rust completely, lay down a piece of sheet metal, stitch weld it together, then lead over the edges until its nice and smooth.

Also works flippin awesome at covering up dents,creases and knicks.

(its cheap as s@#t to)

I don't think I am going to use lead as of right now I am not filling any holes with bondo. I am just smoothing out the gap between the roof and the quarters from where the vinyl top was. I have never seen bondo crack in cold weather well cold weather around where I live any way. I wont be doing much to the holes right now my welder gun broke and I am fighting with east wood to replace the defective POS.Thanks for the input tho.

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Originally Posted by blaze15301

I don't think I am going to use lead as of right now I am not filling any holes with bondo. I am just smoothing out the gap between the roof and the quarters from where the vinyl top was. I have never seen bondo crack in cold weather well cold weather around where I live any way. I wont be doing much to the holes right now my welder gun broke and I am fighting with east wood to replace the defective POS.Thanks for the input tho.

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no problemo! and it is looking good considering it looked like it was about to turn into a 73' bushmaster before you got a hold of it.

I haven't been doing much since last week when my welder broke. East wood is in the process of sending me a new gun sometime soon hopefully. This has left me some time to figure out what I am going to be doing with the car performance parts and color when the body is done. Here is a small list of things That will be in the car at one point or another.

performance
383 stroker new.
10 bolt posi
carbon fiber hood.
big fat drag tires in the back.
2 or 3 inch lift kit.
disc brakes.

cosmetic
White exterior with black pin strips on the body lines.
racing seats
5 point harness
black interior
Defrosters/heater

That is pretty much it for now.I will update when the new welding gun comes in and I get some more welding done.

Who are you getting the 383 thru? What size tires?

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Originally Posted by altec

Who are you getting the 383 thru? What size tires?

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i was thinking one of the online places like summit or a performance place. I am not sure yet tho.
I want to use the rims i have so i have to have 15s.

I think chevy is putting out stroker crate motors now if you want to get it straight from the horses mouth so to speak. I hear jegs is better for crate motors if you do go with an online place.

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Originally Posted by Snowman

I think chevy is putting out stroker crate motors now if you want to get it straight from the horses mouth so to speak. I hear jegs is better for crate motors if you do go with an online place.

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yeah i herd jegs was a great place. i think i was looking at them the other night.

When my ex's brother got a 350 HO for his El Camino he went through summit because it was like $500 cheaper than Jeg's, I would shop around for sure before committing. :)

I just priced out a 5.7 ecotec motor and it was cheaper on jegs so thats kind of funny.. pretty much the same motor except ones carbed and the other injected.

A GM Performance ZZ383 is the way to go for a crate 383. Doesn't matter where you get it.

Granted, 383's aren't my thing. If I wanted a longer stroke engine, I'd go after finding a 427 to rebuild.

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Originally Posted by altec

A GM Performance ZZ383 is the way to go for a crate 383. Doesn't matter where you get it.

Granted, 383's aren't my thing. If I wanted a longer stroke engine, I'd go after finding a 427 to rebuild.

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id love a big block in this thing but i cant afford the whole conversion process.

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Originally Posted by blaze15301

id love a big block in this thing but i cant afford the whole conversion process.

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are you getting a crate motor?


or are you going to do it like a real man and rebuild that engine up yourself?


I mean can't you bore out iron blocks like whats in that to ridiculous sizes?

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Originally Posted by Twigsoffury

are you getting a crate motor?


or are you going to do it like a real man and rebuild that engine up yourself?


I mean can't you bore out iron blocks like whats in that to ridiculous sizes?

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You priced a machine shop these days? It ain't like the old days. For anything short of a race car, a crate is a very sensible option. Very competitive pricing with a shade tree rebuild, and you get a warranty. I don't warranty my own work to myself. :D

For a SB chebby, you really don't want to go more then .030" over for normal use, although .060" isn't out there. Past that, you get into strength, and other issues. Or, you just go right into a water jacket... By no means ridiculous numbers, though.

How most people get the extra cubes on small blocks is through the use of a longer stroke crank. Namely, the same stroke as a 400SB. If you put a 400 stroke length crank in a 350, you get a 377ci. Bore it .030" over, you get a 383. The only problem with this is you normally have to grind the block to clear the rods, and 90% of the time you go right into the water jackets, which can such to fix...

I'm not into strokers. Mainly cause I like higher RPM's, and when you start taking a long stroke engine in the 5500k+ range, the rods try to escape... Which is why I want to build a 302 that'll spin to 10k in its sleep. Yummy.

after building my turbo ford engine, i have come to the conclusion that i like low end low rpm torque. honestly, i could give a doo-doo about anything past 4 or 5 grand, but i want everything under 3000 rpm. so to me a stroker engine sounds like a good idea. that's what i love about my supra - max torque at 2400 rpm. but then it's done by 3500 rpm.

in retrospect, i'd [probably like diesels a whole lot if they weren't such heavy engines.

It all depends on what you want to do with your car, straight line as fast as you can a super charger makes sense. You want a motocross or road type course car a supercharger begins to make more sense or even a dual turbo setup.

yup, you have to figure out what you want tp use it for first, then build to that end. i've seen many a car guy fall by the wayside because they didn't have a plan to begin with and ended up with an undrivable and not fun car. then they get parted out.

just remember, bigger is't always better, sometimes it's just bigger. also, don't get all sparkly eyed about "full on race parts" a lot of times they aren't the best choice for a street car.

oh, and one last suggestion, make sure everything is running right before you start modifying stuff.

Just so everyone knows this is really making me want to drop the tuneport 350 in the blazer ASAP

Well guys i thought i would give you all a nice little update. As far as the engine performance goes, I will defiantly be buying a crate motor for 2 reasons. 1 because i have no experience rebuilding motors and 2 because a crate is cheaper and comes with a warranty. I am not sure 100% what motor i want yet i just know i want at least 400 - 500 hp. When i go i want the front tires to lift. Sorry i haven't been updating i haven't done much but dropped the gas tank i just got my welder back today along with a nice little surprise ill post some pics of all that a bit later tho. So if you guys have any suggestions let me know. I am all ears.

well, if you want front tire lifting power, you don't want to be concerned too much about horsepower. you want to look at torque. horse power is just a calculation of torque and rpms. so you could easily make that 4 or 500 hp at say, 7000 rpm, but have not enough low end torque to get out of your own way.

remember, tune for torque because torque is fun!