Re: How Do I make the Blast door from the Doom 3 project ?
Thanks guys for all the nice comments.:)
It was a booger to fabricate! Everything was trial and error but if it had not been for Crimson's pic's I would not have even known this was possible or where to start! As for the rest of the mod I am planning on putting an lcd screen where the drive bays are and having the blast door raise and lower (hopefully).
I still have to make the door I have looked at the site that Crimson uses to buy styrene but can't decide on the thickness to order! Crimson what thickness of styrene do I need for the door and rails?
I just hope I have room to mount the actuator I may have to orient it different but that will also be trial and error.
I had originaly planned on building 2 of these for I am building twin systems for me and my son but that will depend on wether I get this first one to work.
It will be my son's sixth system. I usualy get his hand me down's but this time we will both be equal with Identical systems.
My son has been building and working on system's by himself and with me since he was in grade school and is quite knowledgable. He has helped me a great deal in the making of this project. In fact he is probably going to tackle the other actuator himself! Needless to say I am very proud of his abilities! :)
The spec's for the systems are as follows everything listed I have purchased two of (the ones with * have yet to be purchased).
NZXT Nemisis elite case (Silver)
Thermaltake Toughpower 700w modular power supply
MSI K9A PLatinum Socket AM2 Radeon Xpress 3200 motherboard
AMD Athlon 64 X2 5200+ 2.6ghz
Samsung DVDRW/DVD+-R writer with Lightscribe
52 in one media card reader
Logitech mx518 optical gaming mouse
Saitek Eclipse II Illuminated Keyboard
2GB DDR2 PC6400 ram (not sure which brand to get yet)*
ATI R600 video card (whenever it finally comes out! XP)*
SATAII HDDs (still deciding what make/model/size to get)*
Windows Vista Ultimate *
Here are some pics of the case.
These pics really don't do this case justice!
I guess you are wondering why I would want a blast door behind the main door. I thought it would look cool, no one would know the lcd screen is there until you open the blast door!
This was the best looking (In my opinon) non modded case I could find. I bought these before I decided to attempt this mod had I known earlier I might have went with another case.
I tried to brighten this pic in photoshop but it still does not show off the chrome metal (At least I think it's metal) shield on the front I had thought of carving something in this shield but am afraid of messing it up! Though I am quickly learning if you want to be a modder fear has to go! Just be sure of what you want and go for it! Can I get a Amen! And what ever you screw up bondo will fix lol.
Also as you can see from this pic the temp \fan speed lcd on the top will go well with the lcd screen in the drive bays and it also can be hidden.
In this pic you can see where I plan to mount the lcd screen.
Any suggestions on this will be appreciated.
The only other thing I've modded was a toy gattling gun. It was my son's when he was little and I was going to throw it away, but I wondered if I could get it to run off a 12v pc molex. After experimenting and playing around with it, I got it to work! Instead of having just a stationary gun mounted on top of a PC, however, I went one step further and made it pan and tilt! Here is a couple of pics of it, I know it's off topic but I wanted to share these.
The barrel rotates and makes a shooting sound, which is powered by a PC molex connector header I made that mounts into an empty expansion slot. It has pan and tilt servos that will let it move as you move a joystick. The servos are powered by six 1.5volt batteries, and the the interface is through the serial port.
I am glad I did not trash this thing because they quit making them!
Thank you for letting me share these I promise not to go off topic again.
I need to also mention that without my son's help I would not have been able to post these pics and there would be several grammatical errors! Thanks son!
Charles , aka Wannabeamodder
Re: How Do I make the Blast door from the Doom 3 project ?
dang...thats nice....you oughta theme the case with the gun!
youve earned a +1rep from me
Re: How Do I make the Blast door from the Doom 3 project ?
I would buld the LCD/door as one single unit that is fitted for the drive bay area. create quick connect plugs (from fan connectors) for power/switching so you can easily remove this unit for troubleshooting and adjustments. Every single part of the Doom3 mod is built into removable modules. Don't build yourself into a corner where parts are hard to access.
As an FYI, I'm running the actuator motor on 12v, not 5v. I wanted a bit more speed and torque so it doesnt get hung up--plus its more dramatic when it opens and slams shut quickly IMO.
When you build the sliding door, use white lithium grease to lubricate the tracks. anything petroleum based will eat the plastics. use this on the aluminum actuator and all the gears too.
As for the thickness of plastics I use, I like to keep a whole range in the shop---its cheap enough material to get a bunch of them. I use all sizes from .020-.080. If you have a hobby shop near you, ask if they carry Plastruct or Evergreen styrene sheets. they are 8"x10" usually. If not, get a bunch of sizes at US Plastics and have them on hand for future projects.
I didnt use a limiter switch at the ends of the actuator travel--the springs in the channel basically create a mechanical one, preventing the gears from stripping while the tension of the springs keeps the teeth engaged at both ends.
Looks great so far, you should be proud of what you've done already!
Re: How Do I make the Blast door from the Doom 3 project ?
Thanks Crimson:
Those are some very good suggestion's and I will be doing just that!
The door hinges are a bit of a mystery looking at the pictures.
Could you possibly give me a play by play on how these were constructed?
Also thanks for the voltage you used for the motor I wasn't sure if it would take 12volts in the movie I am using a 9 volt battery to make it work.
Also as for the mechanical limiter doesn't the motor keep spinning after the sliding mechanism stops?
That's what I was afraid of the gears getting jammed and burning up the motor.
Thanks again for all the help, :D
Charles
Re: How Do I make the Blast door from the Doom 3 project ?
The gears are made from Delrin, a very tough plastic that is not prone to stripping easily. The motor wont burn up if its only engaged for a short time at the end of travel. You can also use a potentiometer to adjust 12v to something lower if you like. Just make sure the POT is rated to handle the amps of the power supply 12v rail.
I'll see if I can whip up a few pics of the door in SketchUp
Re: How Do I make the Blast door from the Doom 3 project ?
Very very simple using Plastruct Styrene tubing and stock plastic sheets. Logicaly, each panel can NOT be wider than the total radius of the curve in the J track that you make or it will jam up. I used thick steel sewing pins for the hing pins--a dab of glue on each head.
Re: How Do I make the Blast door from the Doom 3 project ?
Well just knock me over with a feather!
The door hinges make perfect sense now!
I was looking at parts is 1/8 in O.D. tubing big enough or too big?
How about 1/8 in thick styrene for the door panels?
Thanks Crimson :)
Charles
Re: How Do I make the Blast door from the Doom 3 project ?
yeah that tubing and sheet stock sopunds about right. Get yourself some ZAP! medium thickness superglue and accelerator spray to assemble. Make this whole assembly as strong as possible, dont scrimp on the glue, but do it neatly. this door will take a mechanical beating, remember.
Re: How Do I make the Blast door from the Doom 3 project ?
Problem all the styrene sheets I have looked at are listed in thickness rangeing from .040 thick, .060 thick, .080 thick , .100 thick , 1.25 thick, ect.
I never was good at math does any of these translate into 1/8 in thick?
Charles
Re: How Do I make the Blast door from the Doom 3 project ?
0.125 is 1/8".
Also, great job with everything so far, it's looking great! It's not an easy thing to do, and you did it well.