Help with a SWITCH

I'm trying to install a switch on my Monitor Mod to turn on/off the LEDs to my acrylic panel. I plan on installing the switch into the button panel that I've already got but the problem is that the panel is only about 1/4 inch deep.

I went down to the local RadioShack and found a switch that was the perfect size but it isn't an on/off switch.

I've done some surfing on the web but can't find any on/off switches that will fit into the button panel. This is where I would like some help. Does anyone know where I can find a very small, no thicker than 1/4 inch, ON/OFF, push button and non-illuminated switch? I would like it to be a push button ON/OFF switch not a toggle so it'll blend into the style of the rest of the mod. I don't want it to light up because it'll drain the power source I plan on using the switch for.

Thx for any information you can proved.

Did you try looking at any hardware stores? I was at ACE yesterday, to buy a new dremel, and they had a ton of that kind of stuff, although I don't know if there were any that thin, since I wasn't paying too much attention to them.

www.mouser.com has several that meet your size requirements.

Thx Mach, I've never heard of that sight but just in the few minutes I surfed around there I found tons of switches.

Now I did find a data sheet on some of size of switches I was looking for but I can't tell if there on/off switches like I want or just like the other ones I found at RadioShack. Does double pole-double throw, momentary & maintained action mean when I push it once it turns on and doesn't turn off until I push it again? I'm not sure of the proper terminology.

Double pole means there will be 4 terminals to terminate on. Usually a double pole in the electrical world is a 240V switch. You can just use 2 of the terminals for your LEDs or switch 2 different circuits if you have the need. Double throw means it has 2 positions (On or Off).

Momentary means it'll work like your power switch on your tower while maintained means it can hold the position it's in (On or Off). Double pole means there will be 4 terminals to terminate on. Usually a double pole in the electrical world is a 240V switch. You can just use 2 of the terminals for your LEDs or switch 2 different circuits if you have the need. Double throw means it has 2 positions (On or Off).

OK so I need to make sure it says it's a maintained switch. Well then I think I found one, MHPS2266. According to the information provided this should workout just fine. Thanks for all the help and for the brake down of what all that stuff means Killa_Ape.

I would just get a On/Off 16mm Vandalproof Switch
from Gammods. Link <=-

Yes, Eclecticos, those switches are very cool but just a little to big and won't fit where I need to put it.

Space,

When your looking for the switch, most of the ones labeled as "Push button" switches will be momentary.
Also don't assume that all double pole switches are 240V, the double pole switch is used extensively in the automotive electronics world so they are just as likely to be rated for 12& 24Vdc... Always check the ratings (printed on the side of most switches) or look up there part number for complete specs.


(Space I know the rest of this may not help you but it's good info for others and who knows maybe you'll use it somewhere else in this ... very Cool mod your doing!)


As For the cool Vandalproof Switches.... If your looking for Momentary and don't have to have the illumination... Here's a Domed Top style for $3.95(us) and A Flat top Style for $3.95
All Electronics Is a great place to get Parts cheap, they always have new and different stock so check back if you don't see what you need.



(No I don't work for All Electronics or receive any kind of incentives to pimp them... I just think they are a good company and I've always gotten great service and low prices from them)


GOOD LUCK!
CrazyBillyBob

Thx, CrazyBillyBob, for the added info and the web link. I will be using that site later on future projects.

Do you have access to old computer cases? I mean really old ones, with a turbo switch...
That turbo switch will be a maintained one, push on, push off. It'll be small too.

Bear in mind they're only rated at 100mA. How many LED's are you running, and in what configuration?

Know what I'd do? I'd use one like your original picture and control a dimmer circuit with it. Holding it would cycle the brightness from off to maximum, then back again. Release it to hold the current value.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by xmastree

Know what I'd do? I'd use one like your original picture and control a dimmer circuit with it. Holding it would cycle the brightness from off to maximum, then back again. Release it to hold the current value.

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That's a cool idea worth looking into. I surfed the web real quick and only found schematics that won't completely turn off the LEDs but dim them greatly. That would put an unnecessary drain on my power supply.

Space,
Here's a link LED Dimmer that uses 2 lines (page 100 in the PDF) The PDF has a good discription of how the circuit works...but it maybe overkill not sure how into electronics you are. It has 32 distinct brightness levels, if you have 2 buttons you can brighten or darken the level....With one button (tie the direction input to ground) you just have Brighter. It uses a low power digital potentiometer (MAX5160 runs about $1 us from digi-key) and a modified Schmitt trigger
relaxation oscillator (total of all the need part for the oscillator $2)
Most of these are surface mount so there really small... better be a good soldier.

If you wanted to go with just one button and have the brightness start over when you get to 33 you would need to use a pic micro controller (or a Picax, Micro stamp...Insert your favorite micro controller here), have the button be an input and the output from the pic drive the MAX5160. You'd also need to be able to program the pic to do the job.... But I think there are some guys around here that could help with that if you needed it....

Good Luck,
CrazyBillyBob

Thx for the info. My head is spinning a little but I think I'll head over to the electronic store tomorrow and get the parts I think I need and try it out.

You'll need to have a very good electronics store for it to carry the digi pot... Radio shack will not do! But if the local store has it all GO FOR IT!!

(Don't worry the head spinning is a good thing, it a good sign that it will not explode... If it wasn't spinning after reading that...Tell your family to duck and cover !!! :)

CrazyBillyBob

Oh yes forgot about those automotive switches, good call crazybillybob.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by crazybillybob

It has 32 distinct brightness levels, if you have 2 buttons you can brighten or darken the level....With one button (tie the direction input to ground) you just have Brighter. It uses a low power digital potentiometer (MAX5160 runs about $1 us from digi-key) and a modified Schmitt trigger
relaxation oscillator (total of all the need part for the oscillator $2)
Most of these are surface mount so there really small... better be a good soldier.

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That could be simplified a lot. Forget the oscillator, reduce the number of steps to about four and use the button to increment them.

Hmm... a 4017 with a bunch of different resistors, one on each output.
Either ten levels from 0 to max, or go 1-2-3-4-5-6-5-4-3-2 where 1 is off and 6 is max.

I just can't seem to get my head around this right now. I'm going to keep it simple for now. I just went ahead and put in an order in for some MHPS2266 switches. I think this will do for now and after the completion of my main monitor mod I'll look into adding in the dimming feature.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by xmastree

Hmm... a 4017 with a bunch of different resistors, one on each output.
Either ten levels from 0 to max, or go 1-2-3-4-5-6-5-4-3-2 where 1 is off and 6 is max.

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Tree never thought of using the 4017... It should work, and if you really needed more the 6 steps you can cascade 2 or more 4017 together (it's been a bit but I worked with these little guys allot at one point in my history :) )
With all the new smd's out sometimes the old standbys get lost in the shuffle!

GOOD CALL!

CrazyBillyBob

Ok to semi hi-jack I have a question about switch ratings.

I have a couple switches from NKK but they are rated 125v Now I know I will have to match to get the light to work, but can I use the switch for a lower voltage circuit say a 12v circuit.

hal,
NKK makes allot of switches so I don't know which ones your talking about, but I'll try and answer your question...

Switches are Rated at the max that they safely can operate for example 2A@125VAC This means it's safe to use for a 2A load operating on 125VAC.
Most will also have a DC load rating on them as well.
If they don't have a DC rating it normally is because they have a lamp in them.
If your going to use the switch to power up a handful of LEDS or a Cold Cathode or two it shouldn't be a big deal IE. it's safe to operate... But the light in the switch will not illuminate. There are some (normally older) switches that have a lamp in them, this lamp will not allow you to use them for DC applications (when you switch DC nothing happens) You don't see these much but there out there.

I hope that helped, if your still confused let me know I'll try again :)


CrazyBillyBob