Re: Tips for working with plexi/acrylic
Yeah lol, airbrushing is out I think. The paints not bad at all cost wise, but I would need a compressor/airbrush as I dont know anyone with all that stuff, and I dont plan on spending that much money for something I would only use for this project.
Maybe a blue tinted acryllic panel..sanded to get that frosted look, then use a dark blue/black spraypaint on it, spraying it so its denser towards the top/lighter at the bottom.
and of course, it would be lighted with a CCFL at the bottom... I might test this idea if nobody comes up with a definate answer. Have to order that acryllic online tho, no places around here sell it.
Re: Tips for working with plexi/acrylic
Hey, I just did some work with some Plexi, and I know when I asked about it no one really told me if it was possible or not. And if this was previousely stated in this thread I am sorry.. I only had enough time to read through half of it.
If the advise that I am about to post is already posted, please PM, and I will edit or remove it if possible. Or any Admin is welcome to move it. My feelings wont be hurt.
A laser cutter works very well one plexi glass (they told me Acrylic specifically) which it did do the best. this device is alot easier and faster than any other device. the problem is having it accessible to you. Luckly I am fortunate enough to where my major has a full scale shope with paint booth vaccum formers metal and wood shop. and a laser cutter. basibly it super heats a laser onto a material to eitehr score it or cut through the material.
it works with any materal (metal, wood, or plastic) but certain types of clear plastics will burn to a nice brown instead of staying smooth and clear. The laser cutter is very accurate, and makes every cut smooth. working for cutting out, etching and engravings. Just have to know how to set it up.
best used with Illistrator to make your designs on.
Hope this was of help to anyone who needs it. Later.
Re: Tips for working with plexi/acrylic
Yes, CNC controlled lasers work best to cut acrylic as when your piece is done, it requires virtually no finishing work. Not only do they have the accuracy of a CNC and a laser, but the laser's intense heat leaves a beautiful edge that can otherwise only be attained through the use of flame polishing.
Re: Tips for working with plexi/acrylic
Just saw this topic, and maybe someone has mentioned it before, but acrylic wont melt while sawing it when you put masking tape (that tape looks like paper) on top of it. Don't know why, but it works :D
You can also draw the cutting line on it, and it prevents scratching.
Re: Tips for working with plexi/acrylic
Just one on the cutting of Plexi.
I have just started doing some work with it (only small bits) but had a real nightmare cutting with the Jigsaw and dremmel (too much melting, to the point with a jigsaw fine blade that it welded itself back together behind the blade!!). So using a bit of ingenuity and a limited tool set I found that a tennon saw cuts the stuff blilliantly. The teeth are fine enough and the cut is not too rough, so a rasp and file and sandpaper does a fine job!! It is also very accurate on the straight cuts, and for the curves I use a coping saw.
Re: Tips for working with plexi/acrylic
And if you have troubles with cracks in your acrylic while making threating in it, for example with a m3 bolt in the side of a 5mm panel. Just rotate your screw quickly from left to right, and combine that with screwing it into the acrylic.
When you do this, the bolt gets hot due to the resistance, and it heats up. The plexi will melt a little araound the screw because to that, and plexi which melts wont break....
Re: Tips for working with plexi/acrylic
wow who would have thought that my little wenie post about some tips with pmma would get 14000 views... thats insane but at least its makeing someones life easier. :-)
Re: Tips for working with plexi/acrylic
Anyone have any suggestions on frosting plexi with sandpaper?
Re: Tips for working with plexi/acrylic
For frosting acrylic, you'll want to wetsand the whole way. This will eliminate swirl and scratch marks.
Start with 120 grit, then 220, then 300 or 400, and you can go higher if you wish. However, I've found that 400 to 600 is generally a very nice look.
Re: Tips for working with plexi/acrylic
Only advice I can had: make it uniform. dont go circles in one area, then straight on others. I'm thinking of something; maybe a polisher can make a good job on this... I will have to try it.