Nice hardware. Should really work well with the look you've got going so far.:up:
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Nice hardware. Should really work well with the look you've got going so far.:up:
Thanks guys! Its definitely going to add an element of epic to the mod. I'm:banana::banana:ing all over the place about right now.
In 2007, the Harrogate Hoard was discovered in North Yorkshire England. Dated to the 10th century Vikings, the find included over 617 silver coins inscribed with Islamic, Christian, and pre-Christian Norse pagan symbols. Silver played a day to day role in Viking life where it was used as currency, jewelry, and utensils. Many of these items were inscribed with symbols of religious or magical note. Interestingly, they also used silver as a bactericide. What did they think when they lined the hulls of their ships with strings of silver? They knew it stopped algae and barnacles growing but did they consider it magic? If so, did they consider berserking magic or was there a more practical explanation?
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Time add a little silver magic to this mod. A couple of G1/4" plugs…
A little dremel and drill work.
Berserker rune magic...
22 gauge fine silver sheet
Where this is heading…
8 copies (gonna need more than this unfortunately)
Printed on Press and Peel blue
Cut to size
Steel wooled and cleaned with acetone. Note the dimples on the silver. Those are bad for getting PNP to stick.
Hangar 9 model plane heat sealing iron
Turned to high and used to iron the PNP
And so began, a frustrating series of failed attempts, 15 to be exact
After awhile, I started to figure it out
Nice thing about the PNP, is that you can see where the toner doesn't stick.
See what I mean?
Not too bad. This can be touched up with a Sharpie.
Touched up and ready to etch. In the end, the secret was using a piece of bunched up flannel to first rub all the air bubbles out. Then, I put the iron on one edge of the silver, holding it flat, while I rubbed hard with the flannel on the edge of the silver right next to the iron. Then I moved the iron over a half an inch and repeated. I ironed across the sheet this way and then repeated on any bubbles that I could see. This link was an immense help.
Back covered with tape
Gorilla tape, resists acid very well
Ebay bench power supply, costs more to ship this thing. 40 volts at 5 amps, way more power than I need but I can dial-in both with precision. Had it hooked up wrong at first, quickly solved.
Ospho rust neutralizer, 15% phosphoric acid (info from here)
Backyard etching setup. My etcher is a kit from http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/4231
Etch underway. The cathode is a piece of stainless steel sheet. The anode is a brass tray that holds the silver between its rail. A brilliant piece of engineering that works very well to etch the brass tray but not much else. :rolleyes:
Looks good but its not etching. With daylight fading, I pulled out the brass tray and went with wires gorilla taped to the back side of the silver
It worked! This was from 1 volt at 1.5 amps for 45 minutes with the plates about an inch apart.
Could have done less time and about half the amperage. You can see the resist was starting to let go and pitting was beginning.
I cut the sheet using a jewelers saw and hammered them around a 9mm drill bit. A little solder and a lot of polishing later. Magic ;)
Runes show up very well.
Ready for installation
And this is where they go.
They'll screw into the reservoir to provide the necessary bactericide for the cooling loop.
Thanks for looking. A big thanks to my sponsors, Bitspower and HW Labs. :up:
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Next time: Berserker in a bottle...
O_O That...looks awesome. It's a shame they won't be visible though.
Not really...I think hidden things like this are awesome. I love the story about the hidden message in Abraham Lincoln's watch. When I take apart on old radio, you always find hidden notes and symbols. Its the hidden details that makes me grin and feeds my OCD. :)Quote:
It's a shame they won't be visible though.
as i once stated before, its not the fact that you can see it, but rather the fact that you know its there that gives the little "yay" when you think of it:) most mods of today is about showing all the little details in windows and stuff, but things like this that you are only gonna see in the build log is just amazing!
love the build bro. +rep
Thanks pOPe! Exactly right on the hidden details. :)
I am absolutely at a loss for words here.
I read this last sequence slowly, enjoying every line, knowing your work as I do, and frankly being more and more impressed as the work progressed.
Then came the last picture where these tubes you went to all this *incredible* amount of trouble to make are slid into the reservoir, never to be seen again, but by the bacteria they are there to kill.
Mach, I really don't know what to say here... First off, wow. Incredible work, as expected. But this degree of... whatever this is, really makes me feel like a child. I thought I was driven along these lines myself, but I can see now that I am merely wandering somewhere near the same path.
I literally held my head in my hands in amazement here, and uttered the word "wow" at least five times. Both for the workmanship and for the whatever it is that makes you go to this much trouble for something that won't been seen by another human unless and until some archaeologist cracks it open someday and is very confused.
I truly cannot +rep you enough for this.
Thanks blue! Yours is one of the nicest compliments that I've ever received, in a worklog or otherwise. :redface: Practically, the silver is for the bacteria. The etching though is for you and other folks watching this one; sharing the secret of this mod.
I'm grinning from ear to ear hearing about your reaction. It's the same one that I had watching your gear train in action. So tag, you're it. :)
Forewarned though, I'm not done. There is more madness in store and rest assured, there is a reason and a method to it all. ;)
I've sat here and read through this whole log with a big ol' dumb grin of disbelief on my face, shaking my head occasionally...amazing work Mach, incredible attention to detail. I love the silver tubes, in a way it's too bad you won't really see them when it's done, but I too like to tuck things away where only I know they're there. And the reservoir looks great - brass is so very pretty.
Can't wait to see more pics, it's looking awesome!
Thanks artoodeeto, I'm having fun with it. :)
I'm busy working on another update but I need some help from folks in Canada or Europe (maybe even the US). I need brass metric socket head button M4 screws like in the picture below. 25 & 40mm length would be ideal. Mcmaster's doesn't have them and I'm striking out at local shops.
I've found M4 hex bolts locally and had some partial success with soldering button screws to threaded rod but neither is ideal. Anyone know where to buy the button head ones?
I can't seem to find anyone who does brass...which is rather odd, you wouldn't think that would be such a strange thing.. I found steel and chrome at Bolt Depot (love them, btw), and steel and aluminum at fastener-express. I'm assuming you already checked the other suppliers in the wiki?
Yep, checked the wiki suppliers and sent fastener-express an email but no response yet. Thanks for looking.
New motherboard. So innocent, so trusting....
Mwahahahahaha! Where's my soldering iron??
Happy Halloween guys!
Looks like these guys have what you want...idk how small an order you can get though..
http://www.fastenersolutions.com/products.html#socket
I'll send em a note but it'll likely be a production run which in brass with setup will likely be a few grand. I may have found the limit to my "crazy". Where's Langer when you need him? :)
BTW, fastener-express says look to Europe.
We should just have you start your worklogs in the featured section, you never disappoint.
:) Thanks Jon! I'm humbled by the sentiment...especially since I've got another 3 months of work still left and more dubious things planned. ;)
Got to this late as usual:rolleyes:
Some great work there Mach :up::up:
Just loving the brass work.8)
yours wecrookie:eek:
Wow mach, incredible & exceptional detail, if thats 1 of the hidden details this mod is gonna have monster wow factor hehe :D, the scrolls look fantastic, I'd be scared stiff of dealing with acid thou and how to dispose it properly lol.
Bah, thought I found the bolts you were after, but checked your discription and I missed the essential brass detail, could only find stainless steel in your specification :(, I'll try a deeper search later but hopefully someone else might see this thread and be able to help. It's the fiddly hard to get bits that can hold a mod up.
I've been semi keeping away from here as I see some of the awesome mods progressing and wishing I could afford to start another myself lol, got a fair bit of spare sheet aluminium thou so I could at least practice and if I pull anything decent off I'll post it in the appropriate section :).
Thanks Wecrookie and msmrx57!
@Waynio: Thanks! The acid isn't bad to work with; the electricity is a little exciting for me. As a rule, my hands go in my pockets and stay there while everything is running. Everything has to be switched off for me to touch it again. Folks etch aluminum the same way as the silver with good results.
Sorry, I've gone quiet for awhile. I've been trading worklog time for modding time. I've got a fair bit to update so I'll split this into 2 posts. Back to the story and update
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Some experts dismiss berserking as nothing more than a drunken rage. While alcohol has caused a variety of troubles for centuries, only one spirit has become synonymous with a murderous rage.
The alcohol he described was Absinthe, the Green Fairy:Quote:
Oscar Wilde said, “After the first glass, you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally you see things as they really are, and that is the most horrible thing in the world.”
At the turn of the last century, it reportedly drove men and woman to an uncontrollable fury:
While the Vikings were no strangers to drink, nothing indicates that the Vikings knew of Thujone (the active chemical in Absinthe) or of an alcohol that would have caused their bersekerking battle rage. Perhaps then a less common substance?Quote:
If he continues to take the deadly liquor, his body becomes a mere automaton and he obeys without hesitation the auto-suggestions of his mind, often killing, maiming, and destroying with savage glee, those nearest and dearest to him. - NY Times, September 21st 1905
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The green fairy for this mod comes in the form of Mayhem's UV Green.
This is a custom dye from Mayhem@Bit-tech. A couple of drops and instant glow.
Although conventional wisdom says distilled water and silver should be the only thing in a loop, you got to admit this looks pretty good. More importantly, I need the UV to set off the pump window in the case but why tell you, when I can show you? ;)
Because of the size of the case several things will be mounted or visible externally. I'm slowly working my way around the case fitting the externals like the reservoir, pump, flow indicator, proximity sensor, and hd activity gauge.
The wiring for the temperature sensor will pass through the case via the copper tube. To hide the hole going into the case, I need a mounting flange.
Using a brass grommet and a piece of hex stock…
with a little solder…
results in a mounting flange
I also test mounted the reservoir on the side of the case. Still not sure if the steel handle gets refinished. I really like the flaking paint but I haven't made the final decision on the color palette.
From the inside
Took a piece of brass, drilled and tapped it for 6/32" screws.
Working on the pump and flow meter mounting. They'll be mounted to the right side of the motherboard. It's tight but should work.
Looking inside of the case, with the mounting holes cut out. The failed cut that you see was from trying to fit the pump top...upside down. :facepalm: Luckily, it dawned on me before I cut completely through and it won't be visible once the case is back together.
DCC 3.1 and Ek pump top. If Eddy sees this, sorry but it needs some changes for this mod. :)
First the pump, the ears need to go.
Cut off and sanded down.
Pump apart
Painted with Sophisticated Finishes Blackened Bronze paint
Reassembled.
Sanded off the logos and tapped three mounting holes in the front of the pump
Still need to make some brass hex screws for the back. All the ones I have too short.
Test fitting the pump with a styrene. The styrene will be replaced with brass. The pump is mounted with 3 screws through the front of the pump top.
The flow indicator. It’s a Gems 142541 Paddle Wheel Flow Indicator 1/4" NPT. A little tap action and it's a G1/4 flow indicator.
Sanded about an 1/8" off the back side to make more room in the case. Love the brass. :)
Test fit. Still needs some clean up but that will wait for the final rings.
The rest of the screws don't actually hold anything.
Broken brass volt meter that I got from ebay.
Disasembly has got to be the best part of modding :)
I was hoping I could fix it. The needle and the internals are awesome. Unfortunately, no go.
First I need to work on the mounting. Parts: Tube, knurled lamp nut, finish washer, and a spindle gear from an antique radio.
Solder paste and a mini torch.
Test fit
Soldered and polished
The solder paste is handy but not the neatest stuff.
The soldered side will be inside the case and the gear side will stick into the meter.
The water loop exits from the case front on the right and the inlet is through the pump on the side. The brass nut on the left side is a PIR sensor to detect motion and the wiring behind is an Arduino and a VMusic2. The temperature and the PIR sensor are interfaced with the Arduino. The UV and ThinkM leds also interface with the Arduino...but that...is another update. :)
A big brassy thanks to my sponsors:
Bitspower
HardwareLabs
Next time: Pick your poison...
Better and better, as usual. :) Are you still planning to use the voltmeter, for aesthetics somehow, even though it doesn't work? Think you could tie it in to a thermistor somehow? Maybe just use the housing and the needle, mounted on an existing analog temp gauge, hidden inside?
Just a thought, excellent work.
Thanks! I'm planning on the voltmeter working. I just need to swap in another meter and I'll drive it with the arduino and LCD smartie. I've already got the meter and will hopefully have it working for the next update.
Great project Mach... you stun me in every one of your posts!!
I didn´t get where are you going to use the simulated absinthe? it´s going as the WC coolant?
Thanks Loki! Yes, you got it. Distilled water and the dye will be the liquid in the water cooling loop. It'll make more sense in future updates.
Preeeettyyy... I love the pump and flow meter showing through the front; it would be awesome to have UV ilumination just in those two parts, from hidden, internal LEDs, so it looks like the liquid is just glowing for no apparent reason :D
Thanks x88x!. You're way ahead of me. There will be UV leds in the pump but not the flow indicator. The flow indicator is sealed without a good way to insert the leds.
Not a full update but a little something to pass the time while I recover from turkey overdose. Remember the painted pump? I was looking for hex screws to replace the silver ones…
These are 8/32" but they're too short and the threads are wrong.
Poor man's lathe: Cordless drill and rotary tool :)
Most of the threads removed
Clean up with a small hand file
3.3 mm shaft to work with
Close-up
M4 threaded rod stud
3.3 mm shaft on the end of this also
Add a section of 4mm brass tubing
Pressed the tubing onto the screw with a c clamp
Clamped up, ready for solder
Add in liquid flux
A little….
…goes a long way
Heat until glowing
Add solder
Drop in stud
Hold down until cool
Needs a little clean-up
Final product
Repeat 7 more times. The long screws are for the radiator mounts and short ones are for the pump
Much better…Thanks for looking. :) Bigger update next time around!
And today, I'm thankful for my sponsors :)
Bitspower
HardwareLabs
Nice job on the screws; I like.
Looks amazing so far!!!!
Thanks gentlemen! I'm having fun with it. :)
Yes sir, the screws turned out very nicely.
that just amazing... I would have searched and finaly droped to a conclusion it was not possibel to have those brass bolts.. but you made them yourself its amazing.
WUUH! congratz on the featured dude:D totally disserve it!
cant wait for more updates!
i must say im very impressed that you made your own screws deffinatly plus rep for you good sir please keep up the great work
:) Fantastic work Mach, can't buy em so I'll make em hehe brilliant, got over that hurdle very nicely :):up:.
Huzza, it is alive! Thank you for the patience and comments. This time a real update to the berserkers and the mod.
In 1938, Albert Hoffman synthesized a new drug called LSD from a grain fungus that grows on rye. The fungus was called Ergot, and it has carried an ominous reputation for centuries.
In the end, over 200 people died from eating contaminated rye bread. In the 1800s, the illness was called St. Anthony's fire also known as Ergotism. Before that, historical accounts of werewolves are now suspected to be related to Ergot poisonings.
The vikings too knew of Ergot and used it in burial rituals. It is a compelling idea to suggest Ergot as the source for berserking. It certainly could drive someone insane but given its lethal nature, its unlikely that it was used for berserking. Was there another drug that they could have used?
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Back to the modding. Time to take a look at the base that sits on a piece of wood and is covered in leather. It will hold the SSD and the DVD drive. To give you an idea of where the pieces fit...
On the back is the exposed electrical jack that the Xbox power supply will plug into.
Base marked for dremeling. I'm using an easy lock metal cutoff wheel on a 220 volt dremel. It melts through the soft steel.
Cut out but still rough.
Nothing a little filing won't fix.
Back before dremeling
After with a little clean up.
Tracing out the wooden base
Using a piece of cedar siding and a jig saw to cut it out.
Sanded down
A little chisel work later and a pile of wood chips...
a roughed in place for the DVD and the SSD.
and the base mounts on top. Unfortunately the cedar base was too soft and a little too small.
So take #2 with 2 pieces of birch plywood glued up and cut to size. Chiseling was much easier as the individual layers just peeled up with a sharp chisel.
DVD and SSD in place.
Top in place
Added brass cross supports to allow mounting
Also added the brass frame that re-inforces the case.
Bent and soldered but still needs clean up and polishing.
I also back tracked on the PIR sensor. I wasn't happy with the plastic cover.
I found copper mesh at the local art supply
which worked out much better
Hopefully next time, I'll have more pics of this for your perusal. Thanks for looking!
Many thanks to my sponsors!
Bitspower
HardwareLabs