it's close enough to 90º for me, doesn't need to be exact. I just need to come up with a permanent mount for the rear end of it, that single screw with nuts isn't going to cut it lol
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it's close enough to 90º for me, doesn't need to be exact. I just need to come up with a permanent mount for the rear end of it, that single screw with nuts isn't going to cut it lol
And another update :D
I cut out a piece of black acrylic to use as a fill panel to hide all the slots and holes on the side of the 5.25" bays.
Next I marked and drilled 10 holes. 4 for the flow meter and 6 for the ProtoStack board. Each is held in by a 4-40 stainless allen head screw with a nut to act as a spacer. The acrylic itself is mounted in the same fashion to the side of the 5.25" drive bays.
And here's how it will look through the window in the side. The window is not installed here, but I put the panel on to get an idea. I'm going to use the ProtoStack board to run some interior lighting, wait till you see what I've got planned :D
Next I marked and drilled 4 holes in the top panel for the RFID reader.
Now the reader has pin headers and a barrel jack on it that won't allow it to fit under the window that will be there, so I had to break out the jigsaw again :D
I mounted the RFID reader in the same fashion as the ProtoStack board and flow meter, with 4-40 SS screws with nuts for spacers to keep the contacts off the metal of the case. It now fits perfectly under the window :D
Minor update. Got some goodies in :D
3 120mm Cooler Master Turbine Master 1800RPM fans
A Phobya Radiator Gasket
A Phobya 20x140mm radiator spacer
Black Ice Pro II 240mm low profile radiator
Fans mounted to top rad
And how it looks installed in the case. The rear 120mm fan will be as shown, with the rad spacer and 140mm rad behind the case. The spacer is necessary so that the fittings from the top of the rad will be able to go through the LC holes in the case.
think you could use a larger gauge bolt, with a bolt sleeve and some washers for the actuator arm?
then join the actuator arm with the bolt sleeve (maybe with epoxy), use two washers between the bolts and larger diameter washers between the mating surface of the chassis? maybe with some skateboard/bicycle bearing grease between the washers and inside the bolt sleeve.
and some bolts to extend that couple on the door would let it extend out the full 90 degrees or better.
just a idea though.
Thanks for the ideas :D +rep
I'm not all too worried about it getting to a full 90º, it's the limitations of the actuator. If the actuator extended another 5mm or so it'd do it lol. I'll skip spacing out the door mount, as I want to try to keep it clean. I'm still working on a clean mount for the back rather than that single bolt, as it needs support on the top. If you see the vid the wobbles a little due to the flex of the bolt in the chassis. If I make an arm of some sort for the top of that bolt it'll be more steady
thats what that bottom nut and two large diameter washers were for on my MSpaintCAD drawing.
tighten the bottom nut against the head of the bolt with the two larger spacers to spread out the force put on it. then the two upper nuts tighten the slack on the sleeve so that part doesn't wobble.
maybe i'm just over engineering lol.
oh well just a idea and at either rate the auto open door is the s#@t.
Very clean work, I'm especially fond of the arm.
Minor update. I got bored while waiting for UPS to arrive this Friday with the rest of my goods so I decided to lap my processor. I looked pretty well flat, but I was surprised just how much it was off. These pics go from 400 grit through 1500 grit, and all I've got left to do is polish it :D
Expect an update this weekend after UPS drops off my drool-inducing goods :D
Nice work with the lapping job :)
Parts are in. Enjoy :D
EK-Supreme HF CPU block
Laing DDC pump with Phobya Black Nickel pump top
Phobya Balancer 150mm Black Nickel res
And a nice pile of Bitspower Black Sparkle fittings
Big update this time, I got a lot done this weekend!
I got the top 3-way splitter's mounting holes drilled.
I also got the Phobya pump top mounted. Damn is that thing heavy!
Then I got the res and pump temporarily installed to check fitment.
Then I made up a pump mount plate from black acrylic. I used the 4 120mm fan mounts in the bottom of the chassis to mount it, along with 4 rubber dampers.
Then I ran into an issue with the rear radiator. I thought just the single Phobya rad spacer would be enough, but it wasn't The fittings still wouldn't fit in the holes. I found that if I used a 140mm fan on the outside of the case then put the rad spacer and rad on that they fit perfectly. So I decided to not use the 120mm turbine fan and use the 140mm fan that came with the case because it's still got that look I want. I decided to cut out the rear of the case so you'd be able to see the fan.
Now the fittings line up nicely! I had to run to the hardware store and get some 10-28 x 3" SS screws to hold everything together. I drilled and tapped the rad to accept the larger screws (for strength) and cut the screws down to about 2.25".
I also picked up this cheap momentary key switch off eBay for $3.
I drilled out the stock power button mount and installed the key switch. It fits in there perfectly.
I had to cut the stock button mount in half to clear the key switch. I'll still need to either modify the steel part of the case or bend the tabs on the switch to make it fit 100%
That's it for now! Once my motherboard comes back from Gigabyte I can get the bottom 3-way splitter mounts done, then it'll be time to drill out a TON of rivets and paint the case! Stay tuned :D
You know, you should make a sneaky slot on your keyboard to hide those....... :P
Yeah, because, you know, KEYboard??????
Put it inside one of them Slider USB thumb drive cases.
Like some 007.
Minor update.
I got the case disassembled (mostly). I plan on leaving the drive bays as a single piece like they are for ease of assembly later.
I also got the EK waterblock mounted to my 6870.
Bye bye warranty!
All cleaned up and ready to go.
MMMmmmm shiny :D
All ready to install!
I should have the case painted this weekend. I've got to steal the garage for a few days to paint. Scuff, primer, sand, primer, paint!
Looking good.
That case is such a beast.
The key idea is awesome. Any chance they had the same switch with a refrigerator key style? That would look even beefier.
:)
They had the barrel style ones but they weren't cheap lol. The one I got only has one key style, so anyone who orders it will get the same key. Not so secure, but I'm not too worried about someone taking their key and breaking into my house to use my computer lol :D
Case is painted and mostly assembled. Expect a BIG update tonight :D
HUUUUGE update today :D
I got all the parts hung in the garage ready for primer and paint.
Here is the paint I used. It's from Arctic Cat. I saw a 4-wheeler come into my dealership in this color and immediately thought it'd be perfect for this mod! 3 cans of primer and 5 cans of paint later, it's all done!
And I was left with a whole lot of overspray dust to clean up as well.
Here are the front and top panels with the masking tape removed.
Next it was off with a box of rivets and my rivet gun to reassemble the case. I think it looks pretty damn good, no?
Then there was a point in time in the basement when I was just running through putting stuff together without snapping a whole lot of pics, but I did get some taken :D
Kingston 96GB SSD mounted to one of the hotswap trays.
And more assembly pics :D
Here you can see the side panel and it's windows and frames mounted. I also mounted the NZXT Sentry 2 fan controller into its place on the front side panel.
I also designed, etched and assembled a circuit board to hold the two RGB LCDs. The spacing is perfect so they fit centered into 2 5.25" bay covers.
I also got the plastic frames for the bay covers fit to the LCDs. Next I need to cut the foam filters and the outer mesh to fit the LCDs as well.
That's it for now!
That color is awesome. That deff was a big post because it took me 30 minutes to load all the pics :P
Sick dude!!
Looks awesome!
Thanks Rick :D
Got some airbrushing done today with the help of an airbrush and compressor from a friend and SgtM's Airbrushing rust tutorial...pics tomorrow :D
That thing is amazing.
Thanks :D
Got some airbrushing done :D Thanks again to Auto Air Colors for providing the paint and to SgtM for providing the tutorial!!
Still have more to do on the smaller bits. Enjoy :D
looks good.
Dude that looks pro!
Thanks Shane, glad you like it :D
Love the paint
I could of just smoked a couple packs of ciggs around that computer and gotten similar results.
but i guess it would smell then :\
:P (good job with the paint)
good job on the airbrush looks goooood
More updates! I'm interested in this case, and I wanna see how this great mod turns out! :D
soon enough, I'm working little by little here and there. I've got a paper due for one of my courses so I've been focusing on that though lol :D
man you know what would be sweet and pretty simple?
If it had some sort of blinking status light when its off like a car alarm?
and if you used the chassis intrusion switch ( i seen the slot for it in the case) to set off a alarm if the computer is opened while its off and something hasn't been done like a key turned, or a code entered. or a secret switch flipped.