How Do I make the Blast door from the Doom 3 project ?

Very busy weekend but progress has been made!
First here are some pics of the second actuator. :)

No this isn't the original actuator this is the 2nd and improved version.

This gear setup works more smoothly than the original one I made!
I most likley will change it to this gear setup.

Here are three short videos so you can see the differance.

The first actuator
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...26632469626407

The New Improved 2nd actuator.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...06714217200333

The above video was kinda too dark this one is better.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...37349219122814

Now on to the door tracks:
These were not easy to fabricate! After many failed attempts I let my son take over on these and he did a good job! :)

As you see the door track "J" is drawn out on the styrene.

Here are the two door track "J's" cut out.

We used a mitre box to hold the "J" to make gluing the sides easier.

One down one to go!

A closer look at the first track assembly.

The two finished tracks

Next weekend we start to fabricate the doors and install the door tracks so stay tuned I can't wait to see what happens! :banana:

Charles

Well what a busy day I am tired but progress has been made on the door track installation as the pics below will show.

We start by making a support bracket for the tracks.

The two completed brackets.

The brackets installed.

Next week I plan on working on the blast door it is partialy complete but I ran out of styrene and the store was out too.
I also have some samples of heavy sewing pins for the hinges coming through the mail after I choose the correct size I will order these.
I also plan on bracing the tracks better.

So far so good the real fun is nearing!

Charles

Well I have made a run to the hobby store and have more supplies but I can't seem to get anything done this weekend!:(
I hope to get the door assembled by next weekend if I get my heavy sewing pins by then. (These are for the hinges on the door)
This place I found online www.steinlaufandstoller.com sent me samples so I could find the right size.
I selected #24 BANK Pins but when I went to order I have to by 1,200 of them online thats the minimum they sell.
So I went all over the place trying to find that size in a retail store,I didn't even get close!
So I will be buying 1,200 and I only need 50 :D
The price isn't bad $5.50 until they add handling and shipping and tax comes to $20.00 but I need them maybe I can sell the rest.LOL

BTW the #24 Bank Pins fit perfect in 3/32 styrene tubing with good pivot action which is what I am using for my door hinges.


Charles

My heavy sewing pins have arrived and I plan on getting a lot done today!
The rail installation as seen in the previous post has been scrapped due to unforseen problems.
However I have come up with a new plan and will post pics soon.
The door panels and hinges are ready and waiting to be assembled.

Stay tuned!

Charles

I have a tip for ya...Cover the shank of the hinge pins in white lithium grease to make sure its all lubed up permanently as you're assembling the roll door. Just a dab of superglue on the head of the pin will secure it. The tracks also prevent the pin from falling out should the glue pop off. Grease the tracks as well after you've painted all the parts. I used Krylon Fusion paint.

Do not use anything else to lubricate styrene, especially petroleum products--it will melt the plastic in a short time. Keep your unpainted styrene out of direct sunlight. UV rays will break down the plastic in just a few hours of exposure. If it starts to yellow from UV, it becomes brittle.

also, no need to cut the pins short, leave about an inch long shank for stability. ;)

I just used heavy duty straight pins from a local sewing store (The Rag Shop). was $1.99 for 50. You don't want a tight fit on the pins inside the tubing. Styrene shrinks slightly over time. You want those pins fairly loose.

+Rep btw.

congrats on getting featured. Lookin good so far.

A lot of progress has been made! This is the new rail installation plan we decided to start over because of alignment problems and also the old way we tried wasn't very stable.
Thanks Crimson for the very good advice on the door hinge pins I had not even thought about lubricating the pins! Also thanks for the paint info I wasn't sure what to use now I'm not sure what color.;)

As you see by these pics the door hinges have been marked for cutting.
Also the door panels are coming along nicely the reason they are so long is I am making two doors the panels will be cut to length and assembled once the main assembly is complete

Two door hinges complete many more to go!

Five door panels complete and 24 hinges complete these were all filed by hand to round off one end!

A closer look at the hinges.

More door panels marked and ready to be cut.
These were cut out of 0.60 styrene with a 0.40 metal roofing textured styrene piece glued on top this gave the door a metal look without scribing lines on it. Also the final product is 3/32 in thick which matches our styrene tubing size.

45 hinges made several more door panels to go.

Here you see 12 door panels complete and also our box of heavy sewing pins
# 24 Bank pins they fit the 3/32 tubing not too loose and not too tight and leave plenty of room for pivoting of the hinged door panels.

These two cd rom shells are Identical and should make the fabrication of the second assembly easier.

This is the new walls that my tracks will be mounted to!
And also some braces to add stability.
The cut out area is where the Lcd screen will be.

This is how it will look when assembled it's a lot cleaner looking than the original idea.:)

No thats not my hands mine are 30 years older and not as steady.
This is my son cutting styrene he has proven to be better at this than me so I let him cut all the big stuff.:banana:

One major problem in aligning the lcd screen was the location of the "ears" on one side. The side with the ear at the bottom would not allow proper alignment I have fixed this my fabricating and installing a new bracket.
I would like to point out for anyone wanting to do the same that this was very teadious one slip and the lcd would have been ruined!
Therefore I made sure no components were in the location to be drilled and tapped. I also placed a piece of 1/8 inch styrene between the metal and the pcb and took my time drilling.

Here you see the actuator has been mounted to a block of wood I did this by mounting a metal channel to the actuator then mounting that to the wood.
I also cut two side braces to give the mount a bigger foot print and to make it more stable.

The assembled mount.

The completed mount covered with styrene.

Next weekend we hope to get the assembly started and maybe the door fabricated I can't cut the panels until I am sure of the size needed.
So stay tuned I can't wait to see what happens!

Charles

After a very busy weekend but a lot of progress has been made on the project!

The cdrom shell had to be modified to allow the lcd screen to be removed if needed. The cut away section lets the screen pass straight down without any components hitting. Also in this pic you see the floor of the cdrom shell complete with a brace to glue the protective wall to this wall will protect the lcd screen from the actuator.

Here you see the floor installed.

This is the front and back walls of the enclosure.

This is the side walls with the door tracks mounted.

Walls and floor installed in cdrom shell.

Front wall installed The cut out area is to provide access to the buttons on the back of the lcd screen.

The hole to the lower right is to route the wires from the lcd screen.

This is a view from the back.

The front and back walls installed.

The actuator installed for a test fit.

Door assembly started.

Door assembly finished except for painting.

Nice and flexible just like we wanted!

The door installed for a test fit looks pretty good!:D

After much fine tuning and tweaking we got it to work the following link shows a video of it in action!
It goes kinda faster than I would like does anyone know if the motor can be slowed down without re-gearing it? Without loosing too much torque.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...15488827266619

Sorry for posting so many pics any and all comments are welcomed.
Stay tuned Painting will most likely be next.

Charles

Damn that does go quick!

On this slow ass machine all I could do was hear the thump!

Couldn't see the motion at alll!

But it works, well done that man.

Damn nice job dude!