Working with acrylic plastics

[Rankenphile]

I am building a feaux stained glass motif for a project, and have run into a snag in my pre-planning. I am using colored acryllic plastic sheets for the glass itself and frosting the facing side using the wet-sand technique to help diffuse the light coming from the back side, but I realized that I don't have any idea what to use for the joining. I need something that I can join all the pieces with the way you would use lead in a traditional stained glass project, that is black, opaque, and wont cause the plastic around it to melt.

Thanks.

[Crimson Sky]

There are a number of simulated glass leading (mostly liquids that harden up) products out there--its a huge hobby for people without access to traditional stained glass making equipment. A well known manufacturer is called "Gallery Glass products" Try This Link for starters. I also like to use this Krylon Paint instead of sanding for creating frosted glass. Here is Another link for the same liquid leading product.

[Rankenphile]

Wow, Sky, thanks a ton. That looks like it will do the trick> I'll have to get a bottle and test it out.

This isn't technically for a mod, as of yet. I'm building backlit windows from aluminum and acrylic plexi that are going to act like windows in my raised garden beds. The light will be built in a triangular box with the window on the face, hunged and lined with screen to allow heat to vent, that will be backfilled to look like windows going into the earth. I'm running power underneath them, and they line the walkway from my driveway to my house. I hope that liquid leading will be durable enough to withstand winters and summers, as well as the occaisional kicked gravel.

If it does work, I was considering doing a stained glass "chapel window" in my computer (to tie it back in to the forum), but I've always been a huge fan of the resourcefulness of the readers on this forum, and knew I'd get a great solution from you all.

Thanks again!

[crazybillybob]

To go back to an old favorite....JB Wield It's gray/black colored and can handle the out doors (if the other lead sub doesn't work).

Just an opption.

Crazybillybob

[Rankenphile]

After Sky posted about hte liquid leading, it got me thinking about JB Weld.

If I were to cut the acrylic and assemble it on a table surface and apply the JB Weld, what surface would I need to work on to allow the stuff to release from the tabletop once it has set? I'd hate to have a nice stained glass motif all set up that is permanently part of my work bench.

[crazybillybob]

After Sky posted about hte liquid leading, it got me thinking about JB Weld.

If I were to cut the acrylic and assemble it on a table surface and apply the JB Weld, what surface would I need to work on to allow the stuff to release from the tabletop once it has set? I'd hate to have a nice stained glass motif all set up that is permanently part of my work bench.

Wax paper! give it a try with some spare pieces. With model airplanes you use waxpaper over your plans (you can still see the lines throughit) and then glue the wood together (with CA....Super glue) and it doesn't stick. I've done this method with Gorillia glue too (for R2-Srv's legs.....I'll have to get that into thework logs!)....I've never tried it with JB weild.....
Good Luck,
Crazybillybob

[Rankenphile]

Thanks Billybob. I've used waxed paper for things like this before, I just figured JB Weld would stick. I'll give it a shot.

I used to use waxed paper over photocopies of plans I would draw for making balsa bridges or model structures, but then I was only using wood glue, and even then the glue would still stick a bit. I'll have to look into this, though, as soon as my shop is put together.