Just starting the modding world

[crazybillybob]

You can do most everything that is listed on that link with a good Random orbit 8" disc Sander.....I've got a Skill model 7490 picked it up for $40.00us @ Wal-mart came with a couple of sanding pads and a buffing bonet. Just don't cheap out on the sand paper spend the extra $2 for good 3M paper...It'll save you time and money in the long run. Use it for the heavy sanding to get rid of the anodizing (and the swirl marks) but when you get to wet sanding that's best done by hand with a sanding block (keeps you from taking all th paint off!)

The guy wrote the article using what he had...big beefy industrial stuff...But the same tecniques apply to your normal DIY tools too....and you can get the same resualts with a little more elbow greese and a little TLC with your tools!

(Note most of my power tools come from Harbor frieght and sears....and I'll try anything! once....If I like it I'll do it again!)

You can cut curves and pretty much anything with a jig saw....I'll have to post some of the other case windows I did....All the cut was with a sears jigsaw, and I cleaned them up with a Dremel sanding wheel! It really comes down to what your comfortable using... and How good you are at using it.
Heres a good hint all ways cut it 1/16-1/64 smaller than you plan when cutting out a side panel....cause if it's not perfectly smooth you can file it down to the line...if it is perfectly smooth no one will notice 1/64 of an inch!

Crazybillybob

[[TC]Snarf]

ok, thanks a lot guys. I feel pretty stupid from saying dremel as an actual tool, rather than a brand name. Noobs, what can you do with them. But on another note...with an estimated guess, how much mulah do you think this is going to rack up? If i need to de-anotize it with the according tools?...I think all I really need is the dremel (high speed rotary tool ) and a sanding kit like crazy billy bob said....then after that I still need to do the case painting...and i still need the alkaline remover that the link says....any ideas where this might run?

On another note...Im just gonna spray paint my case black (with primer and what not) but i will need to de-anotize the case so it will stay on? And is there a specific bit i need for the dremel to use on my case?

[slaveofconvention]

Well you can always use an Etch Primer (you'll have to go to a proper automotive supplier for it I think) - it's a pretty aggressive primer and will burn into pretty much any surface and get a good grip on it (Don't use it on plastic - it may well burn thru) but doing it "properly" is probably a better way - generally speaking most short cuts arent worth the time they save

[crazybillybob]

The Alkaline remover is cheap (dawn dish soap and water....Rinse with water then before painting wipe the whole panel down with denatured alcohol or paint thinner....Denatured alcohol is like $3 a quart and evaporates quicker than paint thinner It's what I use on aluminum)

The moral of the story Sand the Crap out of the case (remember the Anodizing effects the out side layers of aluminum) wash the residue off, clean with alcohol, then lay a coat of Primer...I like Rust-oleum primer it sticks very well to Aluminum and you can wet sand it smooth allow to dry and paint it.

Here's a tip if your using Rattle cans....

Paint primer(2coats)....wait 15-30mins wet sand (600-1000grit)
Paint Primer(1coat).....Wait 15-30mins wet sand (600-1000grit)
Wait till the water from wet sanding has dried (you'll see the primer get lighter as the water evaporates)
Paint Base color(2-3coats)....wait 20-40mins wet sand (1000-2000grit)
paint top coat(2-3coats)....wait 20-40mins wet sand (1000-2000grit)
Paint clear (3coats)....wait 20-40mins wet sand (1000-2000grit)
Paint clear (1coats)....Let Sit for 5-10 Days
Buff and polish.....NO WAX! Wait for 30-45days
WAX and light buff.


Once you start applying color don't stop do it all in the same day. or wait 5-7days before Appling the next coat. I don't remember all the technical details but it has to do with the chemistry of the paint and the way enamels dry, if you let them half dry then paint over it the chemicals in the new paint that make it stay liquid effect the semi-dry paint and you get bubbles and peeling. This doesn’t happen when the paint is fresh (it still has allot of the chemical in the paint and it's evaporating) or when it dry (the paint becomes hard and the chemical can't penetrate it)

Don't let this scare you...It's not hard it just takes time....That's the ting about case modding the first case is always the hardest...cause your scared you'll screw it up! (money down the toilet!) We all know this feeling that's why we're here to help! (For some of us when we started case modding...well there wasn't a place like this and we were told we're nuts...but it's ok...cause I think they may have been Right....But I wouldn't have it any other way!)

Good Luck, Don't be afraid to ask Q's if your unsure about any thing...The link I gave you have some great advise...It also was done with allot of pro stuff…but with a little help and some "Engineering" you can do everything there with stuff most of us have around the house!...It just might take some time.

Crazybillybob

Don't feel bad about calling it a Dremel...That is there Premiere Tool and most people refer to a rotary tool as a Dremel. I have 2 one made by dremel and one by Ryobi and we call them both Dremels. by the way dremels go from $40.00 us to $175.00us it all depends on the extras you buy with it (their sold in kits!) For case modders the variable corded Dremel is the best , also the cutoff wheel, grinding tools, and sanding wheels. The Flex shaft is nice to have it makes working in tight places easier, but it adds cost so if your looking for lower cost get the basic variable kit ...best thing about Rotory tools you can Always buy more accessories later when you have the money!
Sears also sells a rotary tool (it may even be made by dremel) that looks very much like the dremel but is a little cheaper and it goes on sale quite often. The other way is to go to some where like Harbor freight...These are imported tools (I.E. Cheap...In all senses of the word....) But for this I'd stick with the name brands. (If you can find it the Ryobi is stronger then the Dremel...but I don't know if they still make it)

[[TC]Snarf]

alright, thanks alot. However, I might not have to do all this, cause I'm not sure if its anodized, and i think it isnt. But if it does, this will info will be very helpful. thnx again.