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Thread: Razer Case Mod

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    High-tech Redneck crazybillybob's Avatar
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    Default Razer Case Mod

    In June I was contacted by Razer and asked if I would like mod a Case for them to be part of a contest that kicked off at PAX 08 (Penny Arcade Expo). The rules were simple,
    Mod a SilverStone TJ10 ESA case, a Lycosa Keyboard, a Lachesis gaming mouse, a Piranha gaming communicator, and a Destructor precision gaming surface. The Mod must represent your interpretation of Razer's company brand, be shipped to PAX on Aug.23, 2008 (gave us about 7 1/2 weeks to complete the mods) and total costs be under $500us. Razer provided each of the three selected moders with the case and peripherals..

    The winner of the contest walks away with $1000, and 5 mice. The winner will be decided by public vote, both online trough out the month of September and in person at PAX 08 (August 29-31 200. The winning case will also be given to a randomly selected voter!!

    This is the WorkLog of my case, get a drink settle in and enjoy

  2. #2
    High-tech Redneck crazybillybob's Avatar
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    Default Re: Razer Case Mod Contest - CrazyBillyBob's entry

    Part One

    Here's the nice new Razer parts that I received to work with all nicely packed.



    Now I need some inspiration... Some Divine Guidance if you will, What do you know I found it in nature (with a bit of help from Google)

    Two points to anyone that can tell me what these pictures have in common other then poison and google!

    Now to get everything unpacked, by the way this stuf came packed beautifully!


    Now we know that this nice stuff isn't going to stay together long Time to start Voiding Warranties!





    Wow that's allot of parts... where did I put all the screws :shock: no worries, there in an envelope some where around here!

    I'm planning on using some of the elements of the snake in this case, like the head and the coils. So they need to be made out of some light and strong materials.
    My first try was using a cellos clay....

    That turned out bad, it shrank allot when it dried and it weighs way too much!
    I'm going with a Tried and true method (should have started wit this one!)
    I'm using florist foam! It's a tight grained Styrofoam that cuts easy, and can be shaped with sand paper. It also comes in diffrent shapes and sizes I went with some 3"x3"x6"blocks.


    The blocks were glued together to the size needed for each part.


    Once the glue dried the parts were shaped. Here's the Head roughed in.

    This process took several hours for each piece, and yes it makes a mess and the foam dust gets everywhere. It has the feel of sand (and the habit of turning up in the same places!).

    The foam all by it's self is not strong enough to bolt it straight to the case so each piece had a wooden base plate laid into it.

    The dremel with the spiral cut bits used like a router, cut trough this foam like a hot power knife through warm butter! (with the aforementioned mess being made).




    The foam by it's self isn't very good for painting, and will not take much abuse...maybe one trip to a LAN... So to protect it and give me a nice smooth base to lay paint down on, I'm going to fiberglass all the foam parts.
    The first step is to cut out 2 layers of glass cloth for each piece. I numbered each piece of cloth and put some registration marks on them just so everything lined up correctly. I'm going to be using epoxy resin so I've only got about 30-45mins of time to work before the resin setup...sounds like lots of time, but not when your trying to lay two layers down before it turns. That's why everything is cut labeled and laid out before the resin is mixed.


    Sorry I couldn't figure out a way to take pics while I was playing with the resin. Here's everything after the resin was applied (the coil sides are still wet).




    Once everything dried, sanded and the extra was trimmed. It was time for Bondo to smooth out all the pieces.



    The darker red spots are glazing putty, it's like bondo only it's about the consistency of toothpaste and is a one part product. It's used to fill little pits and air bubbles that are hard to fill well with Bondo.

    This is the end of Part One... (you may head for the toilet now)
    Part two will be hot on part one's heels!

    Thanks,
    CrazyBillyBob

  3. #3
    High-tech Redneck crazybillybob's Avatar
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    Default Re: Razer Case Mod Contest - CrazyBillyBob's entry

    Part one (intermission)

    In one of my previous work logs (R2SRV) I showed you guys part of my killer work shop.


    Well since then I've moved and have joined the ranks of the Apartment Moders. Let's call this the "Grand Tour" of my Modvironment.
    First stop is the paint booth (this also doubles as the Sawing/Carving area)

    From there we'll move to my wife's office (no modding here).

    And Finally to my Office!

    Yes! I'm in the closet... (Wait for the snickers to die down) From the other pictures you can see that this is where I did the glassing of the snake parts, It's a bit messy but only because I'm mid-mod in this shot I cleaned it backup when the mod was completed.
    I game, do electronics work, and mod here it's homey, could be a bit wider but I make due! It's only for a year then we're on to somewhere new so I can live with it!

    Just to show you Modding can be done anywhere!

    Now It's back to your Regular scheduled Modding.... PART 2

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    High-tech Redneck crazybillybob's Avatar
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    Default Re: Razer Case Mod Contest - CrazyBillyBob's entry

    Part Two

    Now that the Bondo is complete and dry, It's time to get this stuff in Primer. The snake parts have 6-8 coats of primer on them. After the first couple coats I was able to see some defects and pit so those areas were reputtied, and more primer laid down.

    The paint that I chose for this case has a black base, a bright green pearlescent coat, and a darker green transparent candy coat. The darker candy is to add some highlights and add definition to the pieces.
    Now lets get started.
    First step mate black base for everything.


    To simulate the scales of the snake, I used wire mesh over the black base before laying the green pearl. I found that some basic safety precautions need to be taken when working with the wire...it's sharp!

    Once the mesh was in place the pearl green and candy were sprayed on.

    Before the paint dried the mesh was removed, some touchups were made with the airbrush.

    The last step in the paint Clear Coat, each piece received 4-6 Coats of Clear.

    No theme case is complete without the Company Logo! The Razer logo was hand cut out of 1/8" expanded PVC board (sintra), Then it was painted to match the other parts.

    To add a little color to the already black Mouseing surface I made a stencil of the Razer three headed snake logo.


    This is where We'll leave part Two, What? You thought you were going to see all this stuff put back together already?...Hold it, you'll be ok I promise!

    Till Next Time!

    CrazyBillyBob

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    High-tech Redneck crazybillybob's Avatar
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    Default Re: Razer Case Mod Contest - CrazyBillyBob's entry

    Much delayed part Three

    Sorry to leave you all hanging for the weekend! My internet connection at home is down so I had to wait till I got to work to post again!

    The Contest has Started On-line!Check it Out! And Vote for your Favorite!
    Here's the little blurp that they've got explaining things.

    Bruce Maley, Ton Thowdee, and Dewayne Carel are the three us professional modders who are the contenders in the Razer case modding contest - where $1000 and five razer gaming mice are up for grabs. With a limited budget of $500 worth of modding materials, and a timeline of 45 days, they will be pitting their skills against one another as they try to mod a Silverstone TJ10 ESA case, Razer Lachesis, Razer Lycosa, Razer Destuctor, and Razer Piranha to communicate what the Razer brand means to them.
    Contest end Sept 26, 2008. We will announce the winner on Oct 1st.

    So get over there and VOTE!!

    For those of you that didn't guess, I'm Bruce!!


    Where were we? Yes After the Clear Coat!
    After the clear coat was dry and the masks were removed Things were reassembled and tested! What Even I forget where those screws went! The Secret to getting everything back together correctly is pics! I take pics of the parts that are either really complicated or in this case have allot of wires that need to be soldered back in the right places!


    I kept the lighting simple in this one because there was no PSU with this case, and I didn't think I could add one, I really should have looking into that more. I added some Ultra-bright Green Leds inside the Snake's head to illuminate the eyes when there was Hdd activity. This is what it looks like in action (tested it on my main rig at home)
    To watch or download the video click here!


    So what you all have been really waiting on it the finished product... Without further gilding of the lily here is the finished Products, please let me know what you all think!


















    CrazyBillyBob


    Link To Original Worklog
    Last edited by jdbnsn; 09-09-2008 at 03:33 PM.

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