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Thread: Cobra-matic : Retro Bakelite Phonograph

  1. #21
    SOB Fettler xmastree's Avatar
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    Default Re: Cobra-matic : Retro Bakelite Phonograph

    Quote Originally Posted by Mach View Post
    In a modding frenzy, the idea evolved that I could use the first position on the knob to replace the switch on the back of the power supply (which would have been hidden in the case). That means 115 volts through the center of the case attached to an antique radio switch.
    Quote Originally Posted by Mach View Post
    I didn't think that the motherboard sense wire (green wire) carried mains power.
    Now I'm confused as to what you are trying to achieve with this switch. The earlier post suggested you want to interrupt the mains, replacing the black switch on the back of the PSU.

    And why are you messing with the green wire at all?

    By far the simplest solution is to leave the mains alone, and just use the momentary switch to operate either the power or the reset. If you must turn off the mains too, it's still possible, but the switch needs to stay in two positions.

    I think the wiring would be:
    Pole 1 mains in
    1/1 NC
    1/2 mains out
    1/3 mains out (2-3 connected together so there's power in both positions)

    Pole 2 one side of pulse trigger
    2/1 NC
    2/2 other side of trigger
    2/3 other side of trigger (again, 2-3 connected)

    Pole 2 one side of mobo reset header
    2/1 NC
    2/2 NC
    2/3 other side of mobo reset header

    So, position 1, mains is off, nothing else matters.
    Position 2, mains on, power signal is pulsed
    Position 3, mains still on, power unaffected, reset is activated.

    It would be nice if the spring could make pos'n 3 spring back to pos'n 3

    Also, the switch needs to me make before break or you'll interrupt the power when going for the reset, and probably retrigger the power on pulser too.

    Personally, I wouldn't mix mains and low voltage on the same switch. I'd just go with the simple solution. Failing that, get a wafer switch and two wafers, one regular and one for the mains.

    Quote Originally Posted by aintnothang View Post
    Think of a way to simulate a real bullet hole, like shooting it.

  2. #22
    Religiously tolerant. Luke122's Avatar
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    Default Re: Cobra-matic : Retro Bakelite Phonograph

    I think the original plan was to jumper the green wire, then use the mains switch to power up the psu.

    He then realized that it wasnt a very safe idea, so removed the line to the mains switch, and instead wants now to use the green line on the 20pin connector to power up the board.

    Doing so *would* technically save you from having to add a power switch to the header pins on the mobo, so if you are really against having unnecessary cabling to the board, this option *should* work.

    HOWEVER.. xmastree's idea is better.

    \m/ d(-_-)b \m/

    R9 290X+Kraken+Corsair H90, Xeon 5649@4ghz, Asus P6T-WS Pro

  3. #23
    Retrosmith Mach's Avatar
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    Default Re: Cobra-matic : Retro Bakelite Phonograph

    Hmm, Luke122 has the general gist of it. Original plan was to move the mains power (but that didn't seem very safe). So xmastree the plan was to replace the toggle switch on the psu.

    Then I thought that I could in essence do the same thing by switching at the atx connector green wire instead of the toggle switch replacement. I thought this because the power supply doesn't work without the jumper on the green wire. I assumed that the power supply is dead if the green wire is not connected. I'm starting to believe that's wrong given the confusion. In other words, the psu is hot when plugged to mains with the toggle switch on and the atx connector not jumpered. Yes?

    As you mentioned, mains connection on same switch with low voltage is bad so I'll do as you suggest but with just the motherboard header. I can change the rotary swich to a make before break and a 3 position fairly easily with the spring back to position 3.

    So

    1/1 NC
    1/2 pulse circuit->MB header On
    1/3 MB header Reset with spring return to On with a solder bridge across the contact path from 2-3

    Any clearer? Thanks for the patience.

  4. #24
    SOB Fettler xmastree's Avatar
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    Default Re: Cobra-matic : Retro Bakelite Phonograph

    Quote Originally Posted by Mach View Post
    I assumed that the power supply is dead if the green wire is not connected.
    No, it's still live. Basically the motherboard makes or breaks that connection as necessary. There's really no need to touch it.

    1/1 NC
    1/2 pulse circuit->MB header On
    1/3 MB header Reset with spring return to On with a solder bridge across the contact path from 2-3
    You don't need the pulser either.

    Spring load the switch to pos'n 2. Then 1 - on, 3 = reset.

    That way you can also hold it in pos'n 1 to force a power down if necessary.

    Quote Originally Posted by aintnothang View Post
    Think of a way to simulate a real bullet hole, like shooting it.

  5. #25
    SOB Fettler xmastree's Avatar
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    Default Re: Cobra-matic : Retro Bakelite Phonograph

    Quote Originally Posted by Mach View Post
    Ok I think I understand. I'll give it a go this weekend. Thanks!!
    Quote Originally Posted by DonT-FeaR View Post
    glad you do because i dont =) nice paint work
    Right, it seems that what's obvious to me may not be quite so obvious to non-electronic engineers, so here's a quick and dirty diagram.

    Most rotary switches are supplied in multiples of 12. So that's 1x12, 2x6, 3x4, 4x3, 6x1. Mach is using a 4 pole 3 way, so I've drawn that one.



    You'll see that it's normally in position 2. The four poles are labelled A-D to save confusion.

    The animation is pretty close to the actual construction of the switch.

    Power on is position 1, so connecting two wires, one to A and one to the 1 associated with A will short them together when the switch is turned to position 1. Releasing it back to the centre opens them again.

    The reset works similarly, but using position 3 so using a different pole, two wires again, same principle.

    Is it clear now?

    Quote Originally Posted by aintnothang View Post
    Think of a way to simulate a real bullet hole, like shooting it.

  6. #26
    Retrosmith Mach's Avatar
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    Default Re: Cobra-matic : Retro Bakelite Phonograph

    Hey folks, small update as the weekend progress fell victim to jet lag. Wound up stripping the bezel again cause the paint didn't stick to the pot metal on a pea sized place on the top edge. Tried to convince myself it wouldn't bother me but in the end, had to re-do it. Waiting on more paint now as none of the auto parts stores had it in stock.

    Mounted the switch plate and the volume control encoder. I hope to get the on off switch mounted this week.







    Started work on the servo lift mechanism. I've landed on a crank slider setup. Still needs to be tested against the lifting capacity of the mondo servo.

  7. #27
    Retrosmith Mach's Avatar
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    Default Re: Cobra-matic : Retro Bakelite Phonograph

    Doesn't look like the slider crank is going to work either. It comes down to space and time at this point. Take a look at the test fit:





    There's about 5-6 inches for the crank to fully extend on close. The PSU is going to be in the way and a psu duct still needs to be added. A linear actuator might still work but I'm going to cut my losses on the idea of a lid lift. Disappointing to say the least but not enough space and I'd like to finish this mod some time soon.

  8. #28
    Retrosmith Mach's Avatar
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    Default Re: Cobra-matic : Retro Bakelite Phonograph

    Buffed out the bezel which came out a little greener than expected but not too bad otherwise. Still need to add white paint for the letters.



    The knob in the center didn't match with bare brass so as much as it kills me, I had to paint it also. First try failed so that's next on the to do list.

    Converted the switch on the Bigboy fan to a rotary switch for the front knob.




    The rotary switch is a 3 way light switch from a lamp that I cut down to clear the fan when mounted.


    Installed the sound card and the wireless card with a few tweaks to the hold down bracket and antenna. The cards attach to the bottom of the case which is the reverse of the brackets requiring a chop and flip.

    Also painted the video card cable ends. The white connectors didn't go with anything in the case.


    Still a bunch of wiring and cable-gami to do.


  9. #29
    Retrosmith Mach's Avatar
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    Default Re: Cobra-matic : Retro Bakelite Phonograph

    Milestone post! The first post from Cobra-matic. Woot!

    I connected everything and fired it up. DVD and wireless work fine. Big sigh of relief after the modding on both.



    Still have some wiring to do but it's close...so close



    Added the power led to the front using an amber led and acrylic




    Added a duct for the psu to vent the exhaust from the case.

  10. #30
    Retrosmith Mach's Avatar
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    Default Re: Cobra-matic : Retro Bakelite Phonograph

    Still waiting on the thin usb cables to be delivered but look what came in.

    This is a half ounce of glow powder. Apparently a little goes a long way.


    Lights out, how cool is that? I can see what they mean about a little going a long way.


    Source: www.blacklite.com

    Hooked up a Top Shelf Led controller to the power led so now Cobra-matic has a heart beat.



    While waiting for the paint and cables to arrive, I hacked together a control program. This launches at startup to turn on and off the LEDs and El wire, adjust the system volume and mute from the knob on the case, and sample case temperature.



    This is all being driven by a phidgets 8/8/8 interface kit, a 0/0/4 relay kit, and a temperature sensor. Slight overkill without the linear actuator lift kit but I can add other sensors if I want.

    Lastly, I've been playing with the DVD drive. To recap, I hacked a window in the top so the DVDs go in and out without closing the CD tray.



    The problem is that XP doesn't know a new DVD has been put in (no open close event) so it doesn't refresh. Using google-fu only finds people with autorun setting problems. I'm guessing it'll take a software hack or to cycle power on the DVD rom.

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