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Thread: Project: Power House

  1. #71
    Resident 100HP water-cannon operator SXRguyinMA's Avatar
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    Default Re: Project: Power House

    Found it, thanks! AND they've got a request samples button...I'm going to get one or two. HUGE thanks!!

    http://www.linear.com/product/LTC3862

  2. #72
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    Default Re: Project: Power House

    actually...one little problem...of course...their chips are all 0.15" SMD's!!! that's useless for me lol

  3. #73
    Resident 100HP water-cannon operator SXRguyinMA's Avatar
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    Default Re: Project: Power House

    hell I should just get this! up to 55V/3A output!

    http://cgi.ebay.com/12V-24V-Step-up-...item2a0dcb7b16

  4. #74
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    Default Re: Project: Power House

    there you go. all done and ready for you. for ten bones i'd forget about all teh research and fabing you'd have to do and just buy that.

  5. #75
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    Default Re: Project: Power House

    yea I'm going to scoop up one of those, that makes things VERY simple

    Thanks again for that info though, it was much appreciated

  6. #76
    Resident 100HP water-cannon operator SXRguyinMA's Avatar
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    Default Re: Project: Power House

    Update time!

    I started off the night by soldering wire to the PCB of the PSU to connect the corner grounds. These would normally be connected by the steel case that it's mounted to, but in this case it's mounted to plastic, so this had to be done.

    Next up I installed the fans, one intake and one exhaust, and the mesh covers over the outside.



    Next up I worked on the interior lighting. I had to do something to snazz it up a bit I used one long white LED strip and 2 shorter amber ones. I stuck these inside with double-sided tape. The control box is under the LH fan, with the green terminal blocks.



    I then drilled a hole and installed the power button for the lights (in case they get annoying for whatever reason)


    And a short vid of the lighting. The amber LEDs stay on while the white ones blink slowly.


    And then I installed the PSU and hooked up all the wiring.

    And it works!


    And a (crappy - need to redo it with better lighting) vid!


    As you can see I need to tweak the coding, as the 5v and 12v reading are a tad off. I checked them with the meter to be sure, and the output is correct, but the LCD reading is incorrect.

    I'm also having a few issues with the multimeter, as it's being powered by 3v from the PSU, and grounded to the PSU. First off, because it's grounded through the PSU, it shares internal grounds with all the ground binding posts, so only the positive test lead is needed. Second, this meter's readings are low for some reason, by about 1.5v or so. I wonder if it's backfeeding through the PCB Maybe I need to put diodes in the supply line to the meter?

    I tested it with a separate meter, and all the readings are correct. I may just take the 3v and gnd off the meter and use batteries with it again to keep it isolated. I'll try it and see how it works out.

    That's it for now!

  7. #77
    Resident 100HP water-cannon operator SXRguyinMA's Avatar
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    Default Re: Project: Power House

    ok so I just ordered this 12v to 24v booster, so in 3-4 weeks it'll be here, which means I've got plenty of time to sort out the coding for the LCD

  8. #78
    Resident 100HP water-cannon operator SXRguyinMA's Avatar
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    Default Re: Project: Power House

    Well I got the code sorted, just needed to make some final adjustments.

    the code:
    Code:
    /*Arduino Controlled Voltage Monitor
    Code by Will Lyon 2/28/2011
    Code for project Power House on TBCS
    http://www.thebestcasescenario.com*/
    
    #include <LiquidCrystal.h>
    
    //Initialize the library with the numbers of the interface pins
    LiquidCrystal lcd(7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12);
    
    void setup()
    {
      lcd.begin(16, 2);                      //Set up the LCD's number of columns and rows
      lcd.print("  POWER  HOUSE");           //First line opening message
      lcd.setCursor(0, 1);
      lcd.print("Desktop Pwr Unit");         //Second line opening message
      delay(5000);
      lcd.setCursor(0, 1);                   //Clear bottom line
      lcd.print("                ");
      lcd.setCursor(0,0);
      lcd.print(" 3v    5v   12v");          //Update top line readout
    }
    
    void loop()
    {
      lcd.setCursor(0, 1);
      float f = analogRead(0) * 4.92 / 1023;   // 3.3 => 9.9
      lcd.print(f, 2);                        // print float with two decimals
    
    
      lcd.setCursor(6, 1);
      float g = analogRead(5) * 8.05 / 1023;	  // 5.0 => 9.9
      lcd.print(g, 2);
    
      
      lcd.setCursor(11, 1);
      float h = analogRead(4) * 20.88 / 1023;  // 12.0 => 25.0
      lcd.print(h, 2);
    
      delay(1000);
    }
    And the final result. It is accurate to within 0.05v, which for what I'm going to use this for is more than accurate enough

    Now all that's left to do is make the back door, and wait for my 12v to 24v converter to show up!

  9. #79
    The floppy drive is no longer obsolete. AmEv's Avatar
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    Default Re: Project: Power House

    So, are you going to leave thr voltage connectors the way they are, or dye them?
    Two years. They were great. Let's make the next ones even better!

    Tri.fecta

  10. #80
    If it isn't stock, it's modded! slaveofconvention's Avatar
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    Default Re: Project: Power House

    Looking at the perspex hole for the LED you can see excess glow around the edges of the module - A few pieces of basic black electrical tape would quickly take care of that without causing any hassle if it needed to be taken apart again....

    Current Projects: Lobo | Unimatrix | High Voltage | Antec 900 Revamp (Phase 2)
    Completed Projects: General Lee | Synergy Green | Liquid Yellow
    Planned Projects: K-9-PC | Limey

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