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10-26-2011, 04:15 AM
#101
Re: Maximum Security
That sleeving looks smexy.
Originally Posted by
Omega
ber is id elicous
Centurion 5 Mod <<--- ON HOLD FOR THE WINTER
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10-26-2011, 10:03 AM
#102
Re: Maximum Security
Looks great! I'm uber jelous for the WC RAM XP
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10-26-2011, 02:42 PM
#103
Re: Maximum Security
man its all coming together!!
think some black velco straps around some of those sleeved cables would look nice? (like on the video card)
Really like the red led's around the mainboard and the UV lights in the blocks and such.
them UV lights actually ought to help kill off microbes in your water system lol!
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10-26-2011, 03:13 PM
#104
Re: Maximum Security
I actually put some small black zip ties on the VGA cables to clean them up a tad, they look much better now lol. As far as microbes I don't think I'll have that problem with the fluid Kayin is sending me
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10-26-2011, 04:30 PM
#105
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10-26-2011, 04:39 PM
#106
Re: Maximum Security
@TheMainMan - Its only $0.22 per foot + about 9euro for shipping. Whole system sleeved for around $80. Where other sleeving is $0.59 or more per foot making sleeving a whole system well over $150.
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10-27-2011, 01:14 PM
#107
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10-27-2011, 01:21 PM
#108
Re: Maximum Security
the MDPC-X stuff is only like $0.20USD/foot lol it's CHEAP
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11-05-2011, 07:36 PM
#109
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11-07-2011, 08:49 PM
#110
Re: Maximum Security
Another update
I designed, etched and assembled the 2 circuit boards I'll be needing now that I'm only using 1 LCD. One board will house the ATMega328 and all it's associated components as well as have all the I/O pins for the accessories. The second board will mount to the LCD directly and allow me to use a 2x5 ribbon cable instead of the breadboard-friendly layout as the LCDs come.
I used Fritzing to create the layouts and the PCBs.
I started off by laying out everything in the breadboard view.
I used that to create the PCB layouts as seen here. From the breadboard point to the ready-to-print PCB point was about 2 hours. This consisted of moving parts around the boards to get the best possible layout.
Next I created etchable .pdf's (done with Fritzing) so I can print out the boards. You'll notice one side is mirrored. This is because when you transfer the image it'll come out oriented correctly.
Here the boards are printed out and cut out. They are printed with a laser printer onto inkjet photo paper. The reason for this is that the toner, which is plastic, will not adhere to the inkjet photo paper. This will allow it to be transferred to the copper clad with an iron.
Here are the top sides all transferred.
Here I've drilled a set of holes and inserted pins through them. I use these pins to line up the back side traces for transferring.
Fast forward a few steps and you've got a pair of freshly-etched and drilled boards ready for assembly! The blobby-ness on the traces is from a sharpie. If you get mostly good transfer but have a few little patches where it didn't stick you simply use a sharpie to draw it in. It works as an etch resist almost as good as the toner itself.
And here we have the pair of completed boards. I still need to test these to make sure they're working 100%
That's all for now!
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