Maximum Security

[SXRguyinMA]

it's close enough to 90º for me, doesn't need to be exact. I just need to come up with a permanent mount for the rear end of it, that single screw with nuts isn't going to cut it lol

[SXRguyinMA]

And another update

I cut out a piece of black acrylic to use as a fill panel to hide all the slots and holes on the side of the 5.25" bays.

Next I marked and drilled 10 holes. 4 for the flow meter and 6 for the ProtoStack board. Each is held in by a 4-40 stainless allen head screw with a nut to act as a spacer. The acrylic itself is mounted in the same fashion to the side of the 5.25" drive bays.

And here's how it will look through the window in the side. The window is not installed here, but I put the panel on to get an idea. I'm going to use the ProtoStack board to run some interior lighting, wait till you see what I've got planned

Next I marked and drilled 4 holes in the top panel for the RFID reader.

Now the reader has pin headers and a barrel jack on it that won't allow it to fit under the window that will be there, so I had to break out the jigsaw again

I mounted the RFID reader in the same fashion as the ProtoStack board and flow meter, with 4-40 SS screws with nuts for spacers to keep the contacts off the metal of the case. It now fits perfectly under the window

[SXRguyinMA]

Minor update. Got some goodies in

3 120mm Cooler Master Turbine Master 1800RPM fans

A Phobya Radiator Gasket

A Phobya 20x140mm radiator spacer

Black Ice Pro II 240mm low profile radiator

Fans mounted to top rad

And how it looks installed in the case. The rear 120mm fan will be as shown, with the rad spacer and 140mm rad behind the case. The spacer is necessary so that the fittings from the top of the rad will be able to go through the LC holes in the case.

[Twigsoffury]

think you could use a larger gauge bolt, with a bolt sleeve and some washers for the actuator arm?

then join the actuator arm with the bolt sleeve (maybe with epoxy), use two washers between the bolts and larger diameter washers between the mating surface of the chassis? maybe with some skateboard/bicycle bearing grease between the washers and inside the bolt sleeve.


and some bolts to extend that couple on the door would let it extend out the full 90 degrees or better.

just a idea though.

[SXRguyinMA]

Thanks for the ideas +rep

I'm not all too worried about it getting to a full 90º, it's the limitations of the actuator. If the actuator extended another 5mm or so it'd do it lol. I'll skip spacing out the door mount, as I want to try to keep it clean. I'm still working on a clean mount for the back rather than that single bolt, as it needs support on the top. If you see the vid the wobbles a little due to the flex of the bolt in the chassis. If I make an arm of some sort for the top of that bolt it'll be more steady

[Twigsoffury]

If you see the vid the wobbles a little due to the flex of the bolt in the chassis. If I make an arm of some sort for the top of that bolt it'll be more steady

thats what that bottom nut and two large diameter washers were for on my MSpaintCAD drawing.

tighten the bottom nut against the head of the bolt with the two larger spacers to spread out the force put on it. then the two upper nuts tighten the slack on the sleeve so that part doesn't wobble.

maybe i'm just over engineering lol.

oh well just a idea and at either rate the auto open door is the s#@t.

[Vertigo]

Very clean work, I'm especially fond of the arm.

[SXRguyinMA]

Minor update. I got bored while waiting for UPS to arrive this Friday with the rest of my goods so I decided to lap my processor. I looked pretty well flat, but I was surprised just how much it was off. These pics go from 400 grit through 1500 grit, and all I've got left to do is polish it

Expect an update this weekend after UPS drops off my drool-inducing goods

[L3p]

Nice work with the lapping job

[Twigsoffury]