At times I cannot get divets in my paint jobs to sand out. Are there any thicker paints that fill in voids better than others?
I've used H2O paint before and that seemed a bit thicker.
At times I cannot get divets in my paint jobs to sand out. Are there any thicker paints that fill in voids better than others?
I've used H2O paint before and that seemed a bit thicker.
WH1T3 0U7
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Modified Thermaltake View 37
Intel 9900K, MSI Z390A, 128GB (32GB x4) GSkill Royal 3200MHz, RTX 3080 Vision, EVGA Nu Audio, 1TB Silicon Power SSD, EVGA 1300G2, ID cooling 360mm AiO, LG 3440 x 1440
It's actually better to have a thinner paint and do more layers. I don't have any experience with that paint, but krylon does have a decent product for being a rattle can. I'm guessing the h2o is their form of waterbased paint in a can. Seriously though, for as much modding as you do, you should look at getting a cheap gun at harbor freight and going with wicked or auto air paints (assuming you have a compressor). You'll have to clear coat it, but the paint comes out so much better. Let me know if you decide to go that route and want some help. There's a small learning curve, but it's not hard to get used to.
Hi build primer and lots of sanding is your friend. Start with a decent coat, then sand it ALL off - that should, at the least, show you all of the low spots (ie, where there's still primer) - and repeat - the second application should cover all but the heaviest dints (which should have been obvious and bondo'd) - then when you have a nice smooth surface to start with, a light coat of primer, lightly sanded to give it a key, followed by your colour.
After a couple of times doing this (which is the LONG way around) you'll soon learn how to skip one of the primer coats and using a guide coat, possibly get away with just a single application of primer.
That all applies, rattlecan or compressor and gun based - and I second Ricks suggestion - if nothing else, a small compressor can pay for itself in compressed air cans for blowing out dust in as little as a few months. Once you go air, you'll (almost) never go back. (I have to admit to the occasional use of aersol etch primer when it's a TINY bit to prime and I can't be bothered with all the gun cleaning for such a small item)
Current Projects: Lobo | Unimatrix | High Voltage | Antec 900 Revamp (Phase 2)
Completed Projects: General Lee | Synergy Green | Liquid Yellow
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It pissed me off because I did a coat of paint, then sanded the bumps out. I reapplied the exact same paint again and it immediately bubbled and peeled!
WH1T3 0U7
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Modified Thermaltake View 37
Intel 9900K, MSI Z390A, 128GB (32GB x4) GSkill Royal 3200MHz, RTX 3080 Vision, EVGA Nu Audio, 1TB Silicon Power SSD, EVGA 1300G2, ID cooling 360mm AiO, LG 3440 x 1440
Yep. That's a chemical reaction. Doesn't matter if it's the same brand. When using solvent paints, they're called windows. You were too far outside of your window to avoid it. Krylon is 24 hours or 7 days. This is why I like my waterbased stuff. I don't have to deal with that until I shoot my clear, and then I only have to worry about the clear.