Project BF3.3 (battlefield 3 mod)

[Fuganater]

Lucky bastard to get FrozenQ to send you a res. I'm super jealous.

[Richie123]

Lucky bastard to get FrozenQ to send you a res. I'm super jealous.

I know been very lucky with this mod and sponsorship, even managed to get dremel on board after 3 years of trying

[jdbnsn]

This is looking great!!!

[Richie123]

This is looking great!!!

Thanks, cant wait to get it finished and get some proper pics done, not long now i hope

[Richie123]

Back again with a minor little update, decided against the bullets and thought I would mount the Dice nade that I harvested from the Calibur Battlefield 3 vault.

Used a dremel drill piece with some masking tape, to make initial guide holes in the right place, then removed the tape and put a grinding piece on (pointy thin type). You may have noticed I removed the tape, the reason for this is when grinding plastic, the plastic can get hot and if you leave tape it will get caught in the tape. Removing it allows me to quickly remove any that may come up through the top onto the paint.

Mounted nice and tight to the panel, now time to move onto the claymore and mounting that, this means it’s time to do the same thing with that, but it’s not going to be as quick as this.

The first thing I done here was get the placement right, I wanted a small gap at the bottom, those of you that have actually dealt with the level 10 case will know how awkward this is going to be to mount, the front of the case is very uneven and just select were to put the mount holes is a bit awkward.

So after a lot of trial and error, I worked out my placement for the mounts to get it into the right place, the issue with the spot though is one is right next to the HDD tray release button, not ideal but with the right tools possible. As it was so close to the button a smaller pilot hole was made this time with the tape, then I had to remove the tape and use a bigger drill piece, just to ensure I was careful enough not to damage the button.

Then as with the previous mount for the nade I had to grind the hole to the right size without the tape.

As you can see I had to grind down 2 pieces of plastic so the button still had full function, at least the opposite side was not as troublesome.

Same as the previous side, small pilot hole was made with a smaller drill bit, then the tape removed and a larger piece used, this was then grinded open as with the previous holes.

Now the clay more was mounted and I was happy with how it came out, time to see how it all looks on the case.

Overall I am happy with the way this is starting to shape up and look like what I had planned in my head, once I decided to go with the BF3 artwork, see you at the next instalment.

[Aldersan]

That grenade looks sweet!

[Fuganater]

I likey!

[Richie123]

I likey!

Gettin there slowly

Back again with another update, first off I’ll show you the products that arrived from some of the sponsors.

First up Bill stepped up and offered a set of MNPCtech Grooved feet,( nice to get sponsored by someone whos builds you have followed for a long time) his BF3 mod and another are the reason this mod was called BF3.3 as it is the 3rd BF3 mod to be done at time of planning.

Nice little package from them cheers bill.

I have used MNPCtech’s feet on a build before and they were the obvious choice for this build.

I think we can clearly see why MNPCtech’s products are loved by us modders, (yoda Bill defo knows what his doing over there at MNPCtech).

The next item to arrive from a sponsor was the military themed InWin Commander 850w PSU.

Credit were credits due to the sponsors for supplying these products, Back to modding and it was time to finalise the etch, this meant adding the only logo that would be visible on the window as it has a miltary style to it.

Logo Printed out and flipped, the first thing done is too do a gentle dotted line around the edges.

As you can see once you have done that, rather than lines you can see from this picture the logo is gentally put in with dots. (this also allows for small errors to be corrected).

Closer image of the outline in dots, as you can see its very light indeed

Then by adding more dots you can thicken up the lines its quite time consuming but it’s the best way to etch imho as you get a better overall finish.

Now the outline was more bold you can go in and give the shading effect to the etch.

And that’s it, the overal logo is done, flip it over the right way and then you have this.

Ok I suppose you just want to see what it all looks like with the BF3 etch don’t you, well here is the final result.

I can not wait to get this in the case and lit up, anyway that’s all for today, more work to do.

Opps what a meany I am :eyebrow: should at least let you see a larger picture of the etch, link to larger image here

[Richie123]

Back again with another small update on the mouse, I have to say I love it, but I am sure it will not be to everyone’s taste but matched the used and worn look I am going for. With the mouse stripped to just the base I had to mask up certain areas.

The reason for such an extensive mask on this was because of the fact I was going to use some really messy airosol furniture glue. This stuff sprays out like a party streamer spray and is used for sticking material to furniture.

After a good coating the wrap was added to the base, held in place for 10 seconds and left to dry for an hour, after which I took the craft knife to it, the trick here was not to make it perfect to match the mouse top and look used.

Just a little excess to trim here and there but overall I am happy with the result, one thing that I did discover doing this is how much better a mouse feels to have a material edge, does not sound like much, but it feels a lot better than plastic or rubber.

Still waiting on more lacquer to turn up to give the top of the mouse another few layers so I can rub it down smooth, thanks to the Steelseries sensei mouse’s silver surface making a worn scrape on the left click was easy, I also added a few nicks just down to silver next to it for the keen eyed. Before you ask why the wear down to the semi transparent white plastic ill explain.

I want to basically cut a thin slice in main base next to were the wheel is ( I will post pics once I am on that stage) so the orange light from wheel will spread under the left click and glow through that area.

Now for a small Homer Simpson moment twist, the shot above was took using my mobile, just after I clicked the snap button, an email msg popped up on lappy, as I had been waiting for an important email as this was sitting next to my lappy mouse (top left of pic) I just without thinking grabbed the above mouse and for 10 seconds was thinking what the F*** is up with my mouse… What a Dingbat rofl… Stay tuned for another update this weekend.

[Outlaw]

Awesome work so far. keep it up!

lol to the hollow mouse.