R2server

[crazybillybob]

The work on the Rear Logic Display went well this weekend.
Here is the Cad Drawings I made to Get all the parts to fit in this little space.

First up was the Creation on the Bezel. This piece is used to Line up all the 3mm Leds so they look neat and are easier to see.
I've tried to make this out of styrene previously and the drill bit ripped the lattice out (but only after I drilled 80-90 holes ...there's 108 total)
So this time I'm using a 2.5mm thick Aluminum plate...The Lattice shouldn't tear as easily.

I printed the Bezel layout 1:1 then coated the back in a thin layer of spray adhesive ( this keeps the print from moving on you when your marking the centers to drill). Once the layout was in place I used a scratch all the mark dead center for each hole, next I center punched each hole. Here's what it looked like when that was finished.

If you look at the bottom of the plate you can see my first set of mistakes. I used a 1/8" drill bit to bore the holes, and it ended up cutting through the lattice. To fix the problem I got a smaller drill bit but will have to file out each hole a bit to let the 3mm LEDs fit in them....Snuggly! (if you look a the center of the mistake area you'll see these test holes...Works great! After allot of hole drilling, and some shaping the bezel looks great.

I also worked on etching the circuit board that the LED's will be hooked to.
As with the bezel I printed the layout out 1:1 on a Laser printer. Then cut it to fit the board. I also added alignment marks (not shown in the Drawing here) so both sides of the PCB (printed Cuircut Board) line up. I drilled 0.004" holes in the center of these marks and put pins in them. Then I Laid the Layouts printed side to copper on the board and heated with my iron for abit (20-30mins total) watching all the time not to burn the paper. Once that was complete I soaked the paper off in water. This is what it looked like after the water bath. (sorry just realized that I have no pics of that Process prior to this...I'll get them up the next time ..as I have many more PCBs to make for R2)

Now the board gets soaked in ferric chloride till all the unwanted copper is gone. Rinse the board with water and your ready to drill.

Here is the PCB and the Aluminum Bezel side by side.

Here a couple of pics showing the way these parts will be used together.
The first is the Rear Logic surround (made from Resin) with the Aluminum bezel underneath. The Second shows the PCB with the Bezel over it underneath the RLS.

1:

2:

Now I have to finish Drilling the 200+ 0.004 holes in the circuit board (got some drilled but broke my bit and it was late so I went to bed) and Solder in 108 Leds (that’s 216 Solder joins just for the LEDS!) I'll post those pics in a few weeks. Ha it takes time to do all that work, plus I've got some other parts that I need to get done quick before I do all the tedious stuff.

Let Me know what you think.

Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

btw, have you considered doing a CPU? seriously, this is something special...

Dgrmkr,
Not sure what you mean by this?

Thanks for the props!
Yes it's repeditive, but when you get in the "zone" you don't notice anything else (ask my Wife she hates it!) Now If I could just get the frame made for the utility arms (the Blue arms just under R2's head) I could mount the front skins and put the Util. Arms I made on him.

Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

I Tought it would be cool to snap a pic of my pile of parts. (Note the front skins are just taped in place.)

Let me know what you think.



Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

After working on the Aluminum Bezel I ran into a little snag.

The 3mm LEDs I ordered have this little lip on the bottom that makes them 3.4mm so the lips on each LED overlap.

Well here is the answer to the question how to get rid of the lip.

After a few quick clips the lips gone.

Now the LEDs fit snuggly with no overlap.

Here's a preview of what the front will look like with the LEDs in place.

Now I've gotta get them soldered into the PCB.

Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

Yah,
I've got a bit of wiring to do, as well as a bit of fab work to complete.




Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

Thanks guys for all the positive replies!

I got cracking Sunday on Drilling all 340 holes out of the PCB...Wasn't to bad just turned on the drill press and got in the "ZONE". an Hour or so later it was done.

I also finished the Utility Arm Carrier (the utility arms are the 2 Blue arms on the Front of R2 just below the dome). This carrier is important because it gives me somewhere to mount the Util. Arms that I'm making (really thinking about making them servo controlled so they can move in and out), and It pushes the front skin out in the correct shape. Right now with out the carrier the front of R2 has a big dent (flat spot) in it when I pull the front skins tight.

I draw out the shapes that I need on a large sheet of 1/4 PVC plastic.

Next I cut out each shape with a band saw.

Then we move over to the Vise for some clean up with the dremal, a File and the power sander.

I'm gluing the pieces together with Gorilla Glue and some small metal pins (aka Brads, with the hole they go into oversized). It's an odd shape (curved) so I'm just using masking tape to hold it in place till the glue dries.

Once the Glue dries I pull the tape off and it's perfect!

With the carrier glued up and Dry, I just had to sit my Prototype Utility arm in place (and the cutout from the skins so you can see what it's going to look like).

Now I just have to mount this to the frame, and get my front skins glued on.

I know it doesn't look like much but It's the lynch pin I haven't had time to make for the last 3 months....Now that I've got it made the main body is almost ready for paint. The next hurdle is the rear Access panel...So I can get to the Batteries and the PC Parts.

That's all for now!
Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

I didn't make any major progress on this mod this weekend. My wife's little brother graduated from Navy Boot Camp so we drove up to Chicago to see it and spend some time with him.

Hopefully work will be light this week and I'll be able to make some marked progress. I feel as though this mod is on a glacial pace...way to slow but it's getting there. I've Started soldering the LEDs to the PCB, and have had to modify the way things hook up (bad board design...Not sure What I was thinking when I laid it out!). If I get the LEDS hooked up and the front skins mounted this week it will free me up to start glassing the Shoulders and making a mold and plug for the ankles next weekend.

Thanks for check up on this mod.. I'll get more pics up soon!

Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

I've been thinking allot about the Mother board that I'm going to put into this mod. I've been planning that the server side of it would only work when R2 is plugged to a umbilical cord (which would have a 1Gb Net connection and 120VAC to power the PC). Then the Other day a friend of mine sent me an e-mail the this Review of the Voom PC I found more info on the VOOM PC and a Price at Mini-Box

With it I could run the game server while R2 is running around the room, Powering the PC on a 12V Battery. I've always planed on having a high-speed Wireless connection to Him, So the umbilical cord would not be needed. What do you think? The specs on it show that I should run fine as a BF2 Server (as far as I know that is the game with the highest req's for the Server platform!)

Does anyone know someone that wants to sponsor a Mod? I'd be happy to put the Company's logo and/name on a plaque to be mounted on the inside of the Access panel for R2-SRV... Drop me a PM if interested.


Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

I've been working late every night this week (and not on this mod ) So Today (Sunday) I took some time to start the Access door On the Back of R2. This is only way that I'll be able to get in to the body of R2. The Access door is large about 3/4 of the back. The Styrene that R2 is skinned with is very Flexible, which is great to make curves (like the body of R2) but it also means that with out a frame to hold it into shape it will distort.
With that in mind making a door in the back of R2 means I need some kind of frame to keep everything in shape. The answer Fiberglass...My first attempt at laying down glass.

The first thing is to make a form for the door. Lucky I already had a Body mockup that I had made for gluing up the skins (I never used but still had it laying around). I skinned a section with some 1/4 plywood (I made it more flexible by cutting slits 1/2 the way through the plywood the length of the plywood. The Slits were about 1" apart...I forgot to take a picture before I taped it up).
Then the frame is covered with duct tape (you can also use clear packing tape) this keeps the Resin from sticking to the frame. Here's the Frame cover in the tape.

Next I mixed up the Resin & hardener per the directions and painted a coat stright onto the tape. Then the first layer of fiberglass cloth down, using the paint brush to smooth out the cloth and make sure it's good and covered. The 2nd and final layer of fiberglass cloth goes on. On this layer I use a squeegee to smooth the glass and make sure the excess resin is removed (ends up on the floor), Don't add resin on this layer.
Here's a picture after It's all laid up.

Now We wait for 24Hrs to see how it turns out...Hey I'm waiting on this on too!

Well, Just to help the wait and to prove that Everyone loves R2....Here's Peanut (one of our cats) enjoying some quite time with R2.

Crazybillbob

[crazybillybob]

Thanks guys for the Links and leads for Webcams.

I've been looking at the Phidgets boards lately. There USB controlled Input output Boards that are low cost, and you can controll them through code (java, .net, Visual basic, visual c,and more). They have one that lets you controll upto 4 Servos off one board, for $75ca (about $65us). I'm looking at it to create some random movements of the Holo Eye, or open some panels on the body (like the Recharge ports). Not sure Just checking things out.


Crazybillybob


Thanks All for the Positive - Helpful Comments, Please Keep the Comments coming (positive or other wise)....As I'm new to the Worklog thing Let me know How I can make the work log better as well as improve the Project!