C&C tiberium wars Advanced flame tank

[cyclonite]

Good grief man what is all this crayzee stuff?! Looks incredibly impressive but I've no idea what any of it is Keep up the good work, whatever it is lol

The PS3 needs a stable power supply which can run directly on a battery.
This power supply can convert 8-24 V input to 12 V stabilised up to 25 Amp

By doing this I eliminate various power conversions which cost a lot of energy.


The other pcb's control all sensors, servos and motors.
It also regulates the ignition systems and valves for the flamethrowers.

[cyclonite]

Heheheheh, looks like fun. Interesting power connections on those boards...final going to be bolt-on?

Yes, I couldn't find the correct PS3 connectors and didn't want to destroy my good 220V PSU so I will just bolt on some thick cables to my 12V PSU and the PS3

"Ignition systems"... Wait, what???????

Didn't I mention this was a flame tank?

For completeness of this log I will provide the video where I test the flamethrower.
NOTE: the tank will be controlling all these actions automatically with the PCB's I just posted here.

[cyclonite]

i can see it now, you're going to be sitting there playing some game and suddenly your tank is going to turn on you and flame you.

you never know brings gaming to a whole new dimension!

But I plan to have some safety features embedded, don't want to burn down my garage

btw: my software should obey these laws:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three_Laws_of_Robotics

1. A robot may not injure a human being or, through inaction, allow a human being to come to harm.
2. A robot must obey any orders given to it by human beings, except where such orders would conflict with the First Law.
3. A robot must protect its own existence as long as such protection does not conflict with the First or Second Law.

[cyclonite]

RRRrrrr...

Your. Wish. Is. My. Command.

CREEAaaakkKKKK...

[cyclonite]

IDK if you've looked into batteries yet, but for maximum power density (you know, that you can actually buy) and the best cost per Wh, check out the LiPo available at hobbyking.com. IDK how much capacity you'd need, but one (or multiple) of these should do the trick nicely (ignore the 11.1V nominal; LiPo cells are happiest between 3.8V and 4.2V per cell and have a pretty flat discharge curve, so these packs should stay pretty close to 12V for most of their discharge cycle).
5Ah : http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=9184
8Ah : http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=16225
(btw, a tip, if you decide to buy from hobbyking, let the webpage sit at the product you want; it'll frequently eventually pop up a little thing in-window offering a lower price)

For context, your standard UPS battery is a 12V 7Ah SLA.

Thanks for the tip, I have been looking into these batteries.
Initially I will use Dry cell lead batteries (because these are free for me because of my work)

At a later stadium I want to use lipo.
All the PCB's have been designed in such a way that it works on all those voltages.
The PS3 PSU works from 8 to 24 Volt, so 11.1 shouldn't be any problem.

[cyclonite]

Today I also started on the motor PCB's.
These PCB's can drive DC motors and have various feedback methods (motor power usage, step pulses, analog feedback (for servo functionality))

Using the flux pen to add some flux to the PCB, this allows for easy soldering of the small components.

After that I apply some solder to the pins of the chip (I don't have solder paste)

With the programmer I check for any mistakes.
The connector I am using to program this PCB is a piece of an PCI connector salvaged from an old mother board.

This is a close-up, not all components are attached yet.
I only continue when all is checked for errors.

Now the PCB is finisched, no problems have been found, I placed a 20 eurocent coin next to the PCB so you can compare its size.

This is how It will get attached to the motor, the PCB is then controlled using I2c.

And the front of the track, you can see the pcb is well protected on its current position.