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Thread: Yet another LED issue.

  1. #1
    Imma computer! isunktheship's Avatar
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    Default Yet another LED issue.

    I read through some LED threads, and I think I may have run into a problem that they have as well...

    I wanted to change red and green lights on my sound controller to blue and white.

    I matched up the right size, and ordered them. I figured that an LED was an LED, but I was wrong. I later read that blue and white LED's usually require 4v m versus the 1.3-2.0. Now I have 7 superbright blue and 7 superbright white LEDs.

    EDIT: I tested it with a 9v battery, and they work... 3 work at once. I'll try 4 later, unless the number doesn't matter.
    I have to test the LED's as well, so I'm going to find a battery somewhere... I don't have any 9v batteries, so I'm going to try to find a AA.

  2. #2
    SOB Fettler xmastree's Avatar
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    Default Re: Yet another LED issue.

    So, what's the problem? Did you try one?

    LED's don't require a voltage, they require a current. When passing that current they will have a certain voltage across them.

    Usually, to get the correct current, they are run from a higher voltage (5V for example) and a resistor is placed in series with them to control the current.

    You may find that the blue LEDs work ok in the sound controller. What is a sound controller anyway?

    Quote Originally Posted by aintnothang View Post
    Think of a way to simulate a real bullet hole, like shooting it.

  3. #3
    Overclocked
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    Default Re: Yet another LED issue.

    probably an external sound controller like there are in X-Fi and Audigy cards.

  4. #4
    Imma computer! isunktheship's Avatar
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    Default Re: Yet another LED issue.

    It's the little black box here:
    http://www.logitech.com/index.cfm/pr...CONTENTID=9586

    Uhh... and this pic is linked from google.
    http://www.tomshardware.fr/images/av...ch_z5300_1.jpg

  5. #5
    SOB Fettler xmastree's Avatar
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    Default Re: Yet another LED issue.

    How many LEDs are in that controller? I would suggest just try one and see what happens. The worst case, it won't light. You won't cause any damage (unless your soldering skills aren't up to the task...).
    If it works, try more, if it doesn't, put the original one back.

    Quote Originally Posted by aintnothang View Post
    Think of a way to simulate a real bullet hole, like shooting it.

  6. #6
    Imma computer! isunktheship's Avatar
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    Default Re: Yet another LED issue.

    There are 7 greens and 6 reds. I need to get a solder sucker, or whatever they are called, to make it nice and clean.

  7. #7
    Fresh Paint DevilTeck's Avatar
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    Default Re: Yet another LED issue.

    Quote Originally Posted by xmastree View Post
    So, what's the problem? Did you try one?

    LED's don't require a voltage, they require a current. When passing that current they will have a certain voltage across them.

    Usually, to get the correct current, they are run from a higher voltage (5V for example) and a resistor is placed in series with them to control the current.

    You may find that the blue LEDs work ok in the sound controller. What is a sound controller anyway?
    sorry to say xmastree LED's do require a certain voltage to forward bias. they are the same as a diode but require more voltage to forward bias, regular LED's require 1.4 to 1.7 where as super bright's ussually require 2 all the way up to 4.5 volts. what you can do is try and find a data sheet on the LED's in question and it will tell you the min voltage to forward bias and the max current rating. Now the current rating matter because if the current in the circuit is to much then you have to use a resistor to limit this current to about 20% less that max(typical to allow for current surges in the system).

    Who said being good....was.......good!

  8. #8
    . Spawn-Inc's Avatar
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    Default Re: Yet another LED issue.

    this isn't really an issue as i have built it with success. i built a nintendo wii wireless sensor bar. it has 28 infrared LED's, 2 sets of 14. each set runs off a AAA battery in parallel. it gives me maybe 10 or 15 feet more than the stock sensor bar provides which is about 15. after that the hand/mouse starts jumping around. here are some pictures of it. it wasn't fun working with infrared LED's as you have to use a camera to tell if there working or not.







    thats wood glue holding them in place.


    i still need to add a switch so i can turn it off and on easier.
    CPU: Q6600 G0 3.5GHz@1.4v (4.2GHz max) / 4790k 4.8ghz @1.265v
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    HDD: OCZ 120GB Vertex4, Samsung evo 840 250GB
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    Sound: Logtiech Z 5500
    CPU & GPU: 3x Swiftech MCR320, 2x MCP655, MCW60 R2, Dtek Fuzion V2, 18 high speed yates @ 5v

  9. #9
    Like a Lightning Bolt in Your Cheerios! Drum Thumper's Avatar
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    Default Re: Yet another LED issue.

    Quote Originally Posted by Spawn-Inc View Post
    this isn't really an issue as i have built it with success. i built a nintendo wii wireless sensor bar. it has 28 infrared LED's, 2 sets of 14. each set runs off a AAA battery in parallel. it gives me maybe 10 or 15 feet more than the stock sensor bar provides which is about 15. after that the hand/mouse starts jumping around. here are some pictures of it. it wasn't fun working with infrared LED's as you have to use a camera to tell if there working or not.







    thats wood glue holding them in place.


    i still need to add a switch so i can turn it off and on easier.
    Japan has NOTHING on the rest of the world! Just look at the insanity that we modders pull off EVERY DAY!

    +rep for that man. That's hella pimp.
    Quote Originally Posted by artoodeeto View Post
    aw heck guys. We're modders. Let's just build our own, shall we?

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  10. #10
    . Spawn-Inc's Avatar
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    Default Re: Yet another LED issue.

    and hey if you don't know how to wire up a bunch of LED's then just get 2 candles. but make sure the flame is open and not covered by anything.
    CPU: Q6600 G0 3.5GHz@1.4v (4.2GHz max) / 4790k 4.8ghz @1.265v
    GPU: 9800GTX /GTX780 hydrocopper
    Ram: Samsung 4GB /gskill 16gb DDR3 1600
    Mobo: EVGA-NF68-A1 680i (P32) /AsRock Extreme6
    PSU: Enermax Galaxy 850Watt /EVGA 850 G2
    HDD: OCZ 120GB Vertex4, Samsung evo 840 250GB
    LCD: Samsung 32" LN32A450, Samsung 226BW 22" wide
    Sound: Logtiech Z 5500
    CPU & GPU: 3x Swiftech MCR320, 2x MCP655, MCW60 R2, Dtek Fuzion V2, 18 high speed yates @ 5v

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