Cherry wood Case with water cooling

[Zephik]

I vote for the cove bit too. I wasn't sure at first, but that last picture convinced me.

Good luck! ^_^

[Tale Gunner]

I vote for the cove bit too. I wasn't sure at first, but that last picture convinced me.

Good luck! ^_^

Thanks SnowFire Most have agreed that the cove bit is the one to go with.

[Tale Gunner]

Today I took a chance at a raised panel door. I have never attempted this before so this would be my first shot. I am pleased so far.

As soon as I get the panels I will post more

[Tale Gunner]

Well here is my first panel for my door. I am excited about the progress. Norm I couldn't do it without your show.

[tribaloverkill]

Damn man,... so jealous. GAWD.

[Tale Gunner]

Damn man,... so jealous. GAWD.

Hey when I look at your thread I feel the same way. GAWD

[Tale Gunner]

Well I ran out of wood large enough to use for panels. So it was back to the table saw.

Rip 2 more boards.

Plane them to 3/4".

Route the edges.

And glue them up.

Well at least its dark here so I don't have to worry about anything else tonight. I cleaned up the shop and put all the tools away for today.

[Tale Gunner]

I think I just cant quit working on this project. I am really enjoying myself. Its great therapy. I have removed the board from the clamps and scraped off the excess glue in preparation for sanding tomorrow.

[tribaloverkill]

Dude,... thats a Delta saw table? How you like it? Pros, cons? What you pay for it if you dont mind? Reason I ask becaue I was looking at a Delta saw table. It was like 500 or so but it ws a really nice heavy duty table. Is yours belt driven?

[Tale Gunner]

Dude,... thats a Delta saw table? How you like it? Pros, cons? What you pay for it if you dont mind? Reason I ask becaue I was looking at a Delta saw table. It was like 500 or so but it ws a really nice heavy duty table. Is yours belt driven?

Yes that is a Delta saw (contractors saw) It has many extras on it. First there is the second cast iron extension on the left. (the right comes with the saw). The second thing is it is a 50" extension on the right for plywood sheet cuting. Then under the table on the trunion I have the PALS system. Thats a Precision Alignment and Locking System. I have dial indicators that show when the alignment is off. I use a master plate and super bar for all adjustments on the table. Mine measured yesterday was .005" off before alignment. Afterwards is measured at .002" which either was acceptable but I just like to try to keep it as close as possible. The inserts are zero clearance for the least amount of tear out. The knife at the rear of the blade is a Merlin spliter to prevent kick back. The table itself is on a mobile base. I have the Unifence for convenience only. If I were to do it again I would get the Biesemeyer fence just because you can build jigs onto the fence system easier then the Unifence. Many of your contractor saws are belt driven. Some are direct drive (DeWalt comes to mind) but I like the belt driven. It has a Power Twist link belt for the best drive you can get from a v-belt. Thats not to say that its better then the ribbed belts. It was the drive system that came with the saw. I just updated it with the linked belt for smoother operation. I put stainless steel pulleys on the trunion and motor because they were better balanced. So there are things you can do to the Delta contractor saw to make it better.

The original cost of my saw was $400 (many years ago). $500 is not a bad price for the saw but you have to find out what comes with that price tag. If its used get someone to go through the saw before you buy it. If the trunion is bad STOP. You will pay more then $500 to get a new one. Have them check the run out on the trunion (done with a dial indicator). Run out measurement checks how true the blade is at 90 degrees. If the blade wobbles its one of two main things. Blade or trunion is bad.

And don't go out and get one of those thin kerf blades. Its only 1/16" of savings on the wood, but the blade will need to be stiffined. Thats a thing about 1/4" thick that looks like a huge washer that rests against the blade to keep it from flexing while the blade is running. What a pain in the (you know the rest). Spend money on a good blade up front and you won't be dissapointed. I use Forest Wood Worker II on my saw. Its the best in my book but thats my opinion. It runs anywhere from $90 to $130 so don't be surprised. And when its time for sharpening the blade don't take it to Uncle Sams pawn shop and sharpening service. It takes someone who know what they are doing to sharpen the blade. Hope that helps some.....