Project: Call Of Duty Modern Warfare 2 !!!UPDATE!!! 26 April 2010

[Oneslowz28]

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/banner.jpg

This will be my first real themed mod and I am basing it around Call of Duty Modern Warfare 2. The case that will be modded is the Thermaltake Armor+ and will get a custom airbrushed digital camo paint job. I have several companies sponsoring this build which are listed below. This mod would not be possible with out their support.

Sponsors.

Thermaltake (http://thermaltakeusa.com)
NZXT (http://nzxt.com)
Ultra Products (http://ultraproducts.com)
Plextor (http://plextoramericas.com)

I would like to take a moment and list the items provided by my sponsors.

Thermaltake has sponsored me with a full compliment of water cooling parts from their Watercooling upgrade line. This will include 2 reservoirs, a pump, CPU water block, Chipset waterblock, 2 HDD waterblocks, 3/8 tubing with quick connects, 1000ml of green UV reactive coolant, a flow meter with digital temperature screen, a dual 120mm radiator, 2 120mm silent fans, 3 120mm Green LED fans, cable sleeving kit, Armor+ case and a few more goodies.

NZXT has sponsored me with an Avatar Gaming mouse and a Sentry 2 touch screen fan controller.

Ultra Products has sponsored me with an 850w X4 PSU

Plextor has sponsored me with a PX-b320sa Blu-ray super multi writer and a PX880SA DVD combo drive.


http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/sponsors.jpg

Ok now on to the plans.

Things the case will have.

Sentry 2 Touch Screen Fan Controller donated by NZXT
5" LCD in front of case
Water Cooling using Thermaltake donated parts
RGB LEDs with Arduino controll
Airbrushed Digital Camo paint Job
Airbrushed Digital Camo Avatar Gaming Mouse Donated by NZXT
Airbrushed Digital Camo X4 850w PSU Ultra Products
Airbrushed Digital Camo Gaming keyboard

Things I am working on incorporating in the build.

Laser Etched COD MW2 logo in plexi Side lit with green LEDs
Custom 20mm Dummy round handles
Digital Camo Xbox 360 controller
Custom Radiator Shroud made from .308 or 30-06 inert ammo
Removing the 5.25" drive bays and replacing them with a converted .50cal Ammo Can to hold the drives with 1.5-2 feet of .50bmg linked ammo entering from the side.
Sponsors logos etched on Acrylic somewhere in the case



The case has changed to a Thermaltake Armor+ that was generously donated by Thermaltake USA. I made the decision to switch to this case purely for its size.

Pics of the case. (Flickr set here (http://www.flickr.com/photos/thermaltakeinc/sets/72157622008018699/?page=2))

http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Upload/Product/Product/1408/Photos/d68763e2-342b-46b8-af6d-195744538448/B_03_B_frontView_450.gif.jpg
http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Upload/Product/Product/1408/Photos/f0212874-5460-4952-a1f8-4403000e0b7b/B_03_B_angleView_450.gif.jpg
http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Upload/Product/Product/1408/Photos/b054acd2-0c4c-4b86-8426-5c77f42ca6a9/B_03_B_sideview_450.gif.jpg
http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Upload/Product/Product/1408/Photos/f9f3cae2-524e-4c5d-9a3d-507a16f405bd/B_03_BLCS_backView_450.gif.jpg
http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Upload/Product/Product/1408/Photos/7fad8e94-98e4-486f-9a48-43062d1f0681/B_03_B_topView_450.gif.jpg
http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Upload/Product/Product/1408/Photos/fc8b1f8b-18a8-4580-8f37-d757b8a4c439/B_03_BLCS_insideView_450.gif.jpg



Update Index:
Paint Scheme mock up (http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showpost.php?p=272068&postcount=52)

[Trace]

Can't wait to see it.

:pics:

At least post a picture of the case :D

[x88x]

Interesting....yeah, that front panel definitely needs an LCD :D

[Oneslowz28]

Added some pics of the case.

[blueonblack]

Ow!!! My eyes!! My EYES!!!!!


Seriously, that thing is.... hideous.


Good luck.

[d_stilgar]

Ow!!! My eyes!! My EYES!!!!!


Seriously, that thing is.... hideous.


Good luck.

Huh, I thought it looked kinda alright. It definitely has a mechanical/angular look to it that will work well for a helicopter/tank look.

[blueonblack]

I do agree the shape is well suited to a well-done military mod.

I didn't mean the "good luck" in a "you'll never be able to do anything with that" kind of way. And even if I did, CJ should take that as a challenge. :)

It should prove interesting to watch.

[slaveofconvention]

I agree the case isn't to everyones taste lol - personally I wouldn't want it myself but, I can see how the anglular nature will really work well with the COD mod idea - please PLEASE tell me you're changing those BLUE leds for yellow or green in the band around the optical drive - I don't see blue fitting in well with a camo look.....

Check Big Lots Ad (https://www.weeklyads2.com/big-lots/) and Bi Lo Ad (https://www.weeklyads2.com/bilo/).

[SXRguyinMA]

this should be good :up:

[Oneslowz28]

does anyone have a link to a site that sells fake .50cal ammo?

[x88x]

You looking for something like this?
http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/BELT500-5.html

EDIT:
They also have .30-06 (http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/BELT3006-5.html) and .308 (http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/BELT308-5.html) dummy rounds.

[SXRguyinMA]

man I just spent a few hours playing this game (bought it today) and just finished the first oil rig mission. HOLY CRAP is this game good :bowdown: I cant want to see what you do with this mod!

[Oneslowz28]

Ok so far I know that a pack of these 20mm rounds (http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/AMM004-5.html) will be used in the build somewhere.

[x88x]

Heheheh, niice. I think I actually have a pair of 20mm rounds from WWII...that at some point were made into salt and pepper shakers :D

[HM4A1]

Awesome case to work on, looks brilliant original but has huge potential. Good luck!

[SXRguyinMA]

ok, beat the game on regular last night and spent some time playin MP. that game was incredible :bowdown:

I'm really looking forward to this mod :up:

[Oneslowz28]

Can a guy get some screen caps? I wont be buying it for a few more weeks.

[SXRguyinMA]

yea sure. what kind of scenes are you lookin for?

[Oneslowz28]

anything honestly. The only theme I have in my head so far is Digital Camo paint, 20mm Dummy rounds as handles and .50 bmg dummy rounds as feet. So anything you would like to post would be appreciated.

Oh and I just saw a photo of a Digtal Camo 360 controller.... Gotta find one of them for this.

[slaveofconvention]

Go to a shooting range and ask if you can pick up all the discharged shells. Take the empty brass to a hunting store and ask for lead bullets for reloading. Find some bullets that fit in the empty shells and just tap them in with a hammer when you get home.

Then you can drill hols in it anywhere and hang it if you want.


idn if you'll get 50cal but might be worth asking - if nothing else they may be able to point you in the right direction....

[x88x]

/\ Good idea, this. It would get you a lot of smaller rounds if you wanna have stuff from hand-weapons.

[Oneslowz28]

I actually have a source for disarmed 20mm and .50bmg rounds that are properly seated with a press. Prices are not that bad either. I will be putting in an order in the next few weeks. I am a bit of a gun nut (currently own 31 fire arms and hand guns) so the smaller rounds are no problem. I am thinking about incorporating in some 30-06 or .308 dummys too.

I still need to acquire an airbrush, paints, and some other stuff. I also need to finish my review of the case before I start working on it.

[Oneslowz28]

Just wanted to update with some news. I now have 1 confirmed sponsor and possibly 2 more. I will announce the names as soon as I find out what I am being sponsored with.

[Oneslowz28]

Can I get a screen shot of the grenades and flash bangs?

[SXRguyinMA]

I'll see what I can do for ya :up:

[Oneslowz28]

thanks!

[Oneslowz28]

I have been thinking about the digital camo paint job for the last few days and I think I have the method I am going to use just about figured out.

First I thought about using some frisket like is used in this (http://www.airbrushtech.net/AIRBRUSH/camo.html) tutorial. And I may still use some frisket on this but since the case is mostly flat I was thinking I could just cut a stencil out of transparencies you use on overhead projectors. I went to staples today to pick up a pack of transparencies and was surprised that they only sell them in $40 packs. So I asked the cute chick working in the copy center if I could buy a few singles from them and she sold them to me for the price of a copy.. $0.10 each. So I bought 25. She told me to come back if I needed more. So I am going to attempt to cut out some stencils in the next week or two and see how hard its going to be to duplicate the digital camo pattern.

Now here is my delima. Which digi camo pattern do I go with?

ARPAT (ARmy PATtern)

http://www.made-in-china.com/image/2f0j00UMqaCveEbGcwM/Digital-Camo-Print-XHMP8901-.jpg

MARPAT Desert (short for MARine PATtern)
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c8/MARPAT_desert_pattern.jpg

[SXRguyinMA]

heres a shot of some frags, I'm trying to get a decent one of the frags

click for bigguns

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l11/sportrider12584/th_mw2ss.png (http://s92.photobucket.com/albums/l11/sportrider12584/?action=view&current=mw2ss.png)

[OvRiDe]

Personally I like the ARPAT. I have always like the green camo look, vs the other colors.

[slaveofconvention]

I agree - I always thought green is blatently camo whereas the other variants like arctic or desert don't scream it as loudly - a lot more contrast in the colours too and green isn't a colour you see much on cases as opposed to beige's and white/greys

[x88x]

I would go with the ARPAT, since the only character that you play in the game who's in a normal branch is an Army Ranger.

[Loki]

Arpat, one more vote here :D

[Trace]

ARPAT vote here. It says SHOOT ME I'M AN ARMY DUDE
See, I would go as a clown because they're looking for army dudes...
(Looked for the Family Guy clip to go along, but couldnt find it, Im going to keep loooking and Ill post it when i find it)


EDIT: http://thetravisty.com/Family_Guy/wmv/Its_Better_Not_To_Fit_In.htm

[Oneslowz28]

ARPAT it is then... Now I gotta match some colors.

[SgtM]

I'm biased, but MARPAT. We had it first. Not to mention the ARPAT looks like faded, washed out a$$ if you ask me.

[raistnox]

i agree with sgtm but im biased as well Ooh-rah!!!!

[Oneslowz28]

Ok guys its official, This build is now Sponsored by NZXT.

[SXRguyinMA]

congrats! :bowdown:

[Oneslowz28]

Ok the source I have for my inert ammo will not be shipping anything until after the first of the year. So that gives me a little time to finish planning everything.

Water Cooling or TEC Cooling?

I want to put an i7 in this but unless I get a mobo or ram sponsored that wont be happening. The same goes with SSD unless I get one of those $80 Kingston 40gb SSD's.

[blueonblack]

Sponsor!!! Outstanding!!

I vote water cooling. Didn't the Germans have a water-cooled machine gun at one point? That could be some inspiration...

[Oneslowz28]

Thanks BoB

I am leaning more towards WC too. Kayin and I spoke about it the other night and he is willing to help me design a bad ass loop. I guess if I am going to do a mod on this scale I better do it big huh?

[blueonblack]

I guess if I am going to do a mod on this scale I better do it big huh?


Yup.

[Oneslowz28]

Got the word in today. NZXT has shipped a Sentry 2 touch screen fan controller, an Avatar gaming mouse and some extra 120mm fans. Thanks Guys!!!

[Airbozo]

Congrats on the sponsor.

I was in need of a new mouse since my Logitec 518 is thrashed. I went to Fry's and they had 2 Modern Warfare 2 themed mice by Saitek. Heavy mouse with weights and reversible slider pads. Painted in the camo theme with a MW2 logo on the heel. It has the green led glow on it too. I have been trying to find it online to show you for ideas but have not been able to find one...

EDIT: Here it is: http://www.frys.com/product/6071968

[Oneslowz28]

Thanks for the link Terry. Thats an awesome looking mouse. The NZXT Avatar has some blue leds I plan on changing out and it will be getting a similar paint job on its hard plastic parts.

[SXRguyinMA]

congrats! that touch screen fan controller loos sweet IMHO :up:

[Oneslowz28]

It is pretty nice.

I published a review of the sentry 2 a few weeks back here (http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/frontpage/?q=node/430).

[OvRiDe]

Congrats on the sponsor.

I was in need of a new mouse since my Logitec 518 is thrashed. I went to Fry's and they had 2 Modern Warfare 2 themed mice by Saitek. Heavy mouse with weights and reversible slider pads. Painted in the camo theme with a MW2 logo on the heel. It has the green led glow on it too. I have been trying to find it online to show you for ideas but have not been able to find one...

EDIT: Here it is: http://www.frys.com/product/6071968

It appears that Madcatz, Saitek, and Gameshark are owned by the same parent company or related some how. There are lots of hits on it if you look for the Madcatz name instead of Saitek.

Official site is here.. http://modernwarfare2.gameshark.com/pc.htm

Looks like they have a couple of pretty cool looking keyboards as well.

The mouse is on sale here for $29.90

http://www.gogamer.com/MadCatz-Modern-Warfare-2-Sniper-Mouse-All-PC-Accessories_stcVVproductId85416118VVcatId444849VVv iewprod.htm

[Oneslowz28]

Sweet. I have a contact at MadCatz....

[Oneslowz28]

Ok I promise to post some actual design / build stuff very soon. I would like to announce that I picked up 3 more sponsors: Thermaltake, Ultra Products, and Plextor.

[billygoat333]

:banana: cant wait to see this get started! :)

[Oneslowz28]

Ok I have my first official update!!
Today I got word that Thermaltake will be sending me a full compliment of water cooling parts from their Watercooling upgrade line. This will include 2 reservoirs, a pump, CPU water block, Chipset waterblock, 2 HDD waterblocks, 3/8 tubing with quick connects, 1000ml of green UV reactive coolant, a flow meter with digital temperature screen, a dual 120mm radiator, 2 120mm silent fans, 3 120mm Green LED fans, cable sleeving kit, Armor+ case and a few more goodies.

I took a little time in photoshop tonight to see what the digital camo paint job may look like on the Armor+. What do you think? The actual paint job will be brighter and more defined but you get the idea.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/aromorside.jpg

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/armor3.4.jpg

[Trace]

I like it!

[Locum51]

Badass!

[slaveofconvention]

I'm not sure about the HDD waterblocks. From what I've been reading recently, cooling HD's doesn't make much if any difference to lifespan or performance. From what little I know about watercooling, I'd imagine the extra blocks would create more resistance in the loop(s) and more latent heat in the coolant.

Course, as it's free, you kinda have to use em heh ;)

[x88x]

That is gonna be a nice looking case :D Looking forward to seeing it.

[Oneslowz28]

Thanks guys!

[raistnox]

i recently picked the game up and holy s@*t if the case looks even half as good as the game itll revolutionize the modding world

[SXRguyinMA]

thats going to look awesome!!

a note on those waterblocks...dont bother. I have one in my rig for a while, and it keeps the HDD around the same temp at the rest of the cooling system (~30ºC in my case). I took it out of that and put it in the thermaltake icage that came with my armor case instead. it holds 3 HDDs and has a 120m fan in front. the HDD stays at room temp now, not coolant temp

[Luke122]

the HDD stays at room temp now, not coolant temp

That's a good point actually... :)

[SXRguyinMA]

That's a good point actually... :)

yea its more of a HDD heater than a HDD cooler lol :facepalm:

[x88x]

yea its more of a HDD heater than a HDD cooler lol :facepalm:

Only if the coolant temp is higher than room temp :twisted:

[Luke122]

Only if the coolant temp is higher than room temp :twisted:

Which it would be (IMHO) unless refrigerated, or very agressively cooled (huge rads, big fans, lots of airflow... and noise).

Can anyone verify whether a water loop can cool below ambient temps?

[x88x]

I've been wanting to build a system that would for a while now; I imagine you could do it easily if you had external rads with good airflow through them, inside a freezer. Just use a liquid with a freezing point quite a bit below water, and you should be fine. Like I said, the idea's been bouncing around my head for a while now; I've just never had the money, time, and justification to do it.

[Luke122]

I've been wanting to build a system that would for a while now; I imagine you could do it easily if you had external rads with good airflow through them, inside a freezer. Just use a liquid with a freezing point quite a bit below water, and you should be fine. Like I said, the idea's been bouncing around my head for a while now; I've just never had the money, time, and justification to do it.

What about using tech(peltier) coolers on your res?

[Oneslowz28]

You can put the RAD in ice water / freezer and it will chill below ambient air temps but would not chill below the now relevant ambient temp of the water or freezer the RAD is in.

Thanks for the tip on the HDD cooler. They actually only sent one instead of two like I originally thought. I will use it in the mod and if later the need arises to remove it then I will. Afterall TT was nice enough to send it to me so I kinda want to use it.

Has anyone seen any home made solutions to a door to case plug that will make an electrical connection when putting the side window back on the case? I would rather not have to plug a wire in every time I take the door off.

[Luke122]

How about those magnetic couplers that were used on the Cygnus X build?

[x88x]

How about those magnetic couplers that were used on the Cygnus X build?

Actually that would probably work quite well. Most neodymium magnets are nickel coated, and nickel conducts electricity quite well. Another way I've seen is a friend of mine a few years back got a hold of conductive foam that he put on contact points. Worked quite nicely; at least for a fan and LEDs.

[Luke122]

Or there's always a super fancy method.. inductive couplers... ;) Wireless power transmission to the side panel when it's close enough. WOOT.

[Oneslowz28]

Im liking the Neo mag idea.

[Oneslowz28]

Made a banner.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/banner.jpg

[Locum51]

Awesome!

[SXRguyinMA]

I have seen a case with contact connections built in so that works like you want. theres two small spring-loaded contacts by the hinge that connect the fan power when the door is on. It wouldnt be that difficult to make I dont think. I actually want to try to make one for my armor case, now that I've put a 120mm fan in the side of it

[Oneslowz28]

I will see what I can come up in sketchup later tonight. With both of us having the same case we should be able to perfect it.

[SXRguyinMA]

I've got the regular armor, not the armor +, but I think the only real difference is the top panel and side panel window :think:

I'll see what I can come up with, and if I can find that case I saw before

:EDIT: actually the insides are different on the two as well

[SXRguyinMA]

found it!! the Thermaltake SPEDO case

http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?C=1400&ID=1829

its at the bottom of the side panel

[SXRguyinMA]

the video here on tiger's page shows it. funny how the video on their own page doesnt lol

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4197077&CatId=1510

[Oneslowz28]

Yea some cases in their element series has that connector. I may just see if they can send me a few of them to cannibalize. I put my concept here (http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showthread.php?p=272205#post272205)

[SXRguyinMA]

lookin good! gotta spread the rep first though lol

[p0Pe]

love the banner man:D

[Oneslowz28]

Just a small update tonight.

I have been weighing my options on how I can airbrush this paint job for a few weeks now. I could do like this guy (http://www.airbrushtech.net/AIRBRUSH/camo.html) did or I can use stencils. I finally decided on the latter about a week ago. So I sat down and took a good long look at the ARPAT pattern. It seems to be 3 layers with the lightest on the bottom and the darkest on top. The pattern itself is just blobs with pixilated edges. The edges seem to be what I will call full pixels and half pixels.

I sat down and did a few sketches on graphing paper to get a feel for creating the designs and then took it to photoshop and using my wacom tablet and a ¼” grid in photoshop I drew some patterns. What I plan to do is to trace these onto clear acetate overhead projector sheets and then cut them out using an Exato knife. Then I will paint the whole case a light gray followed by a lighter gray spraying from the patterns, then I will spray a second layer of darker patterns followed by a third layer of even darker patterns. Then I will coat the whole thing in a few layers of mat finish clearcoat. Ok let’s move on to the pics.


ARPAT (ARmy PATtern)

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/ARpat.jpg

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/atpatsketch1.jpgThe first sketch I did. Notice the coffee stain.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/arpatsketch2.jpgThe second sketch I did. The graphing grid is ¼”.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/arpat1_small.jpg (http://themakersworkbench.com/?q=node/174)Click for larger image
This is the first digital sketch I did. Each pixel is 1/4".

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/arpat2_small.jpg (http://themakersworkbench.com/?q=node/173)Click for larger image
Part 2

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/arpatPS_small2.jpg (http://themakersworkbench.com/?q=node/178)Click for larger imageFor the first half I used a 1/4" grid created from guides.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/arpatPS_small.jpg (http://themakersworkbench.com/?q=node/177)Click for larger image
For the second half I used the normal photoshop grid set to 1". To draw the lines I used the pen tool to mark my pattern then right clicked and clicked "stroke pattern. I had the brush set to 1px with 100% hardness.


I will make the pattern files available in a 2 printable tiff files. They are sized to 8.5”x11” @300dpi.

[SXRguyinMA]

lookin nice, I cant wait to see it painted!

[Airbozo]

I saw some peel and stick camo pattern transparencies a while back. Same ones used by the military. Interested? I could find them again.

Meanwhile:

http://tacticalcamo.com/Paint-Stencils.html

Specifically:
http://tacticalcamo.com/articles/How-to-Paint-your-weapon-or-marker-digital-style.html

[Oneslowz28]

Thanks for the link terry. I think I saw there site when I first started thinking about this mod.

[Oneslowz28]

Update Monday or Tuesday

[jdbnsn]

Can anyone verify whether a water loop can cool below ambient temps?

Luke-

From what I understand, you should not cool your loop below ambient temps (although it has been done with peltiers and such) because any drop below room temperature will cause condensation to form on the hoses, blocks, and any other equipment exposed to room air. I would ask Spawn-Inc though to verify.

[Luke122]

Luke-

From what I understand, you should not cool your loop below ambient temps (although it has been done with peltiers and such) because any drop below room temperature will cause condensation to form on the hoses, blocks, and any other equipment exposed to room air. I would ask Spawn-Inc though to verify.

Thanks Jon, I knew about the implications of it, I was just curious if pumps+fans+rads= lower than ambient. I dont think it's possible though.

[x88x]

Thanks Jon, I knew about the implications of it, I was just curious if pumps+fans+rads= lower than ambient. I dont think it's possible though.

It's definitely possible. I have a friend who got one of the early Core 2 Duo's and got it down to 17C with, I think it was a Scythe Kama HS/F. At the time he did it, I think room temperature was probably around 20-25C. Granted, he underclocked the chip a bit just to see what temps he could get, but still; below room temperature on air! :banana:

[jdbnsn]

Ohhh I see. Well if that is the case, I don't think it is possible. My physics is a bit rusty but I don't think you can actually lower the heat of an object by convection with comparatively warmer air. Not sure about this, but it doesn't sound logical, maybe the core 2 in the above story had some mismatched thermometers or something.

[x88x]

Hmm, assuming Wikipedia isn't lying to me about wind chill (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_chill), you appear to be correct. I wasn't actually there when he achieved those temps, so idk, it's possible he was pulling air in from outside (where it was much cooler).

[slaveofconvention]

I very much doubt it's possible to get lower than ambient without active cooling. Fans, rads, heatsinks are all passive, they move air/water, nothing there actually chills it so the lowest it can get to is the ambient without some for of active chilling as opposed to cooling.

[Luke122]

That wiki article basically states that wind chill only speeds up the temperature change of inanimate objects to ambient, and does not lower the temperature below ambient.

*edit* Back on topic, CJ.. when are you going to start building this thing?! Hehehe..

[Oneslowz28]

I talked to TT today and they will be shipping the case and the rest of the gear this week. So I expect to start sometime next week. There was also a mixup with my gear from NZXT and it was sent to the wrong address. Replacement gear will be set out tomorrow or the next day.

I hope to make it to an Army/Navy surplus store one day this week and pick up a few things for some top secret mods to the case. Luke knows what these mods are so I am sure he will vouch for me when I say its going to be freaking awesome.

I ordered my paint yesterday and it should arrive by Friday. I still need to pick up a self healing cutting mat and blue painters tape. I also need to go out to my shop at my grandmothers and nab the water filter off of the air compressor there.


Some of the fans I am getting have white blades with black bodies. Any thoughts on how to make them fit in with the theme?

Here is what they look like
http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Upload/Product/Product/1863/Photos/80451dd9-b3f1-43ee-9418-7564b2eb5801/B_AngleView2.jpg.jpg

[billygoat333]

camo paint the blades! that = win imo! lol

[Luke122]

camo paint the blades! that = win imo! lol

Better put a grill on them fans, if you cant see the blades you could lose a finger! ;)

[Oneslowz28]

Well if all goes right with the latest email I sent there may be custom fan grills on this too.

I was thinking today and am wondering where I will put the radiator. Here is my delima... I can rout it outside the case and attach it somewhere to the outside of the case or I can put it in the bottom of the case as there will be plenty of room in the bottom. If I put it in the bottom would I position the fans as a push or pull set up? As in pulling air into the case or pulling air out of the case?

[Oneslowz28]

Ok since I wound up explaining one of the secret mods on another forum I am obligated to talk about it here at my home.

I plan on taking a .50 cal ammo can and removing the stock 5.25" drive cage and replacing it with the ammo can. The bottom will be cut out of the ammo can and will become the end that the drives slide into. This will put the handle end facing the back of the case. This will provide me a very good place to hide wires and follow the theme. Exiting from the side of this new ammo can drive bay will be a 1.5-2 foot long belt of .50 bmg inert ammo.

Thoughts? Credit for this idea goes to OvRiDe and Luke122 btw. Thanks guys !!!

[Luke122]

Credit for this idea goes to OvRiDe and Luke22 btw. Thanks guys !!!

*blush*

But you spelled my name wrong. ;)

[Oneslowz28]

Fixed.

[slaveofconvention]

Well if all goes right with the latest email I sent there may be custom fan grills on this too.

I was thinking today and am wondering where I will put the radiator. Here is my delima... I can rout it outside the case and attach it somewhere to the outside of the case or I can put it in the bottom of the case as there will be plenty of room in the bottom. If I put it in the bottom would I position the fans as a push or pull set up? As in pulling air into the case or pulling air out of the case?

If you put it in the base of the case with fans pulling air IN, surely that'll mean that all the heat gets pushed back into the case....

EDIT: Or did I just say something blatently obvious/miss something equally obvious

[Luke122]

Fixed.

Haha.. like my old cat. ;)

I was just bagging on you.. no worries man! Thanks for the props. :D

[jdbnsn]

From what I read in Paul's book it doesn't matter whether you direct the fans inward or outward just as long as they are all the same. You want to create either a negative or positive air pressure and the heat will migrate on it's own (it will anyway, just not fast enough without a pressure gradient).

[Oneslowz28]

Hmm. Ok so I will have:

Pulling air out of the case:

two 120mm fans on the radiator @ 58.3 CFM
The Fan on the Ultra X4 850w
Possibly 2 or 3 GTX295 (Depends on pending sponsorships)


So If I go negative pressure I would want just a single 120mm pulling air into the case right?

[x88x]

Well, technically pulling in anything short of the exact amount that your pushing out of the case would create negative pressure. I've always understood that it's best to have neutral pressure, so that you don't build up pockets of air trying to escape (positive pressure) or not have enough air flowing through (negative pressure). With neutral air pressure, you have exactly the same amount of air coming in as going out, and as a result, air is constantly flowing at a steady rate through the whole thing.

One thing to keep in mind as well (idk if you've already taken this into account, just throwing it out there) is that fans on a rad aren't gonna push anywhere near as much air as those same fans not on a rad. Really only matters a lot when you're shooting for neutral though, I suppose.

[Oneslowz28]

I spent some time in sketchup tonight modeling the Armor+ from scratch. I am no where near finished but it is to scale and will provide me a virtual place to test out ideas before I commit to them.

So here is what I got finished tonight.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/sketchup0.001.jpg


http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/sketchup0.002.jpg


http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/sketchup0.003.jpg


http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/sketchup0.004.jpg

[Oneslowz28]

Sponsored gear came in from Thermaltake today. I am going to have to get in touch with them though as the top plastic on the case was broken in 2 places. One under the Power and HDD leds and the other was the peice that holds the top of the right door in place. One other thing that was damaged was the FlowTX Plus. The threads were stripped out on the inlet side. The damage to the case was due to shipping I think as the box is pretty beat up. The Flow indicator damage had to have occurred at the factory as the package was not damaged and still looked factory sealed.

Here is what they sent.

Armor+ Black
Coolant 1000 1000ml coolent kit
TMG2 Dual 120mm radiator with fans
Water level indicator Rez kit
WB200 North Bridge Water block

I have my table full of stuff at the moment so as soon as I get it cleared off I will post some pics

[billygoat333]

this will be one sweet project. im at the edge of my seat in anticipation. at least, til my asscheeks fall asleep. then I wont sit at the edge of my seat anymore. :P

[SXRguyinMA]

lol

[Luke122]

OK, enough seat-edge-sitting, get some freakin' pics up here already!

[Oneslowz28]

Pics will be up tonight. Camera battery charging now. Went through both of them at the baskeball game the other night... Time to buy new batteries.

[Oneslowz28]

Did someone say pics?

This is the first batch of sponsored gear. The NZXT stuff came in yesterday morning.
http://thebestcasescenario.com/oneslowz28/personal/sponsoredstuff1.jpg

This is the damage done to the Thermaltake Armor+ box. You can see a crease running lengthwise near the top. This tells me that something heavy was set on top of it or it was dropped at some point. Incidentally the corner with the most damage is also the side that the broken door mount is on. UPS really dropped the ball this time.

http://thebestcasescenario.com/oneslowz28/personal/armorboxdamage.jpg

A big thanks to my sponsors Thermaltake (http://thermaltakeusa.com), NZXT (http://www.nzxt.com), and Plextor (http://plextoramericas.com)!!!!

So as of this posting I have in the following items:


Thermaltake

Armor+ super tower case Black
Coolant 1000 1000ml coolent kit
TMG2 Dual 120mm radiator with fans
Water level indicator rez kit
WB200 North Bridge Water block
Flow TX Plus

NZXT

Avatar 2600 DPI gaming mouse
Sentry 2 touch screen fan controller
4 120mm fans. (2 solid black, 1 black with white blades, 1 clear with blue LED

Plextor

PX-880SA DVD/CD Super Multi Writer
PX-B320SA Blu-Ray reader / DVD and CD Super Multi Writer

[Airbozo]

Nice score Oneslow! Looks like christmas came late this year.

We used to use those cases for a customer workstation (not the + version). One in five showed up damaged. It was almost always one of the doors.

Has Intel contacted you yet? I may need to make another call...

[Oneslowz28]

I have not heard anything from intel yet. I just figured they had their hands full with CES this week.

I will contact TT about the damage after CES is over. (My contact is actually running the booth this week)

[3pcon]

i really cant wait to see this finished...

just about every case ive ordered has come in the first time like that all droped and broke. i try to buy my cases from somewhere i can go and pick it up at now. :)

[Oneslowz28]

Well out of all the cases we have reviewed in the last year this is the first to come in damaged. I am sure this instance is not Thermaltake's fault as the drop or whatever it was was enough force to break the very thick corner of the styrofoam into several pieces. My bet was it was dropped from the loading ramp of a plane or crushed by something very heavy being sat on top of it.

I would have denied shipment of the case due to damage but UPS did their classic "set it on the porch, tap very lightly 2 times on the door and then run to the truck as fast as you can" trick. I heard the taps and the truck but by the time I could make it from my living room to my front door (about 50 feet) the truck was already pulling out of my driveway.

[Luke122]

Well out of all the cases we have reviewed in the last year this is the first to come in damaged. I am sure this instance is not Thermaltake's fault as the drop or whatever it was was enough force to break the very thick corner of the styrofoam into several pieces. My bet was it was dropped from the loading ramp of a plane or crushed by something very heavy being sat on top of it.

I would have denied shipment of the case due to damage but UPS did their classic "set it on the porch, tap very lightly 2 times on the door and then run to the truck as fast as you can" trick. I heard the taps and the truck but by the time I could make it from my living room to my front door (about 50 feet) the truck was already pulling out of my driveway.

Haha.. sneaky bastards. You should have called them up and asked when they were going to deliver the case... "It never made it to me!"

[x88x]

This is why whenever possible I ask for signature confirmation. That way a) they can't leave it on my doorstep for hours to be taken by anyone walking by, and b) they can't run away and pretend that any damages happened after they dropped it off.

[Oneslowz28]

I spent some time last night tearing down the LCD screen I will be using on the front of the case. I would like to thank Drum Thumper for providing me with this screen via the TBCS TGIMBOEJ. The screen was intended to be attached to a PS2 making the gaming console portable. I apologize for the fuzzy pics. The module I use to handle images on my website is resizing my photos and the end result is a little fuzzy. I am working on fixing this problem.


http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/PS2_LCD.preview.jpgThe PS2 Screen

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/PS2_LCD_guts.preview.jpgTearing down the screen was quite simple. There were 6 screws I had to remove and then the back cover lifted off reveling the guts. Seen in this photo is the actual LCD module, sound controller board, two speakers, and another controller board that I am assuming was used to further process the sound output from the PSU.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/PS2_LCD_guts2.preview.jpgEverything removed. I will only be using the LCD module. The rest will go in my electronics junk box for future hacking.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/PS2_LCD_width.preview.jpgThe actual screen measures 4 5/8" wide. With the metal case it measures very close to 5 1/2"

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/PS2_LCD_diagonal.preview.jpgDiagonally the screen measures close to 5 3/4"

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/PS2_LCD_back.preview.jpgThe back of the LCD screen module is where the connector is located. Drum Thumper provided me with the pin out schematic and I spent the night confirming that it works. It is easily interfaced with a D-Sub connection and a 12v supply from a 4pin molex. More on this later and I will post a schematic for all to see and reference. The screen is a Sharp LM6Q401 and the dimensions on it can be found here (http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/43129/SHARP/LM6Q40.html).

Finally I would like to show you some of the damage done to the Thermaltake Armor+ case during shipping. Thermaltake is sending me a replacement plastic piece.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/brokenarmor.preview.jpg

[Oneslowz28]

The Ultra X4 850W PSU came in this afternoon. Big thanks to Drum Thumper for shipping it to me after the mixup. Love the box of peanuts man.

[Drum Thumper]

The Ultra X4 850W PSU came in this afternoon. Big thanks to Drum Thumper for shipping it to me after the mixup. Love the box of peanuts man.

Curtis told me you got the box and wondered why it cost $21 to ship it. I spent a year in e-commerce and I know first hand how stchuff gets (mis)handled in that environment. So I made it a point to get it to you in one piece. FWIW, it came to me in a similar sized box and had two crumpled up sheets of brown paper for padding.

I also love the fact that this worklog has gone ~10 pages or so and all you have managed to do is tear a LCD screen apart lol.

[msmrx57]

I also love the fact that this worklog has gone ~10 pages or so and all you have managed to do is tear a LCD screen apart lol.

So it's not just me. :D

[SXRguyinMA]

lol

[Mark_Hardware]

I also love the fact that this worklog has gone ~10 pages or so and all you have managed to do is tear a LCD screen apart lol.


Thats CJ for ya :D

[Trace]

A lot of talk and no walk?
Nah, he's doing a great job planning things out. THis mod will be epic when done.

[Oneslowz28]

Yea 13 pages is a lot for no actual work. In my defense I did wait 1.5 months on the case to show up lol. That is partially my fault though as I could not decide on what case I wanted to use.

I promise to have an actual work update this weekend guys.

[Kayin]

Guys, look at how long it took me to finish Mithril. I had to get stuff sourced from Germany!

Let the man 'lone, he's still moving, albeit at a snail's pace.

[Drum Thumper]

Hell, it's all good. I mean, look at Frankenstripe. Still not done, been 2+ years now.

However, with that mod reaching V 3.0, it will be done this year.

[Oneslowz28]

If we want to talk about epically long mods one must not forget Tribaloverkill's Blackout.....

[Airbozo]

Hell, it's all good. I mean, look at Frankenstripe. Still not done, been 2+ years now.

However, with that mod reaching V 3.0, it will be done this year.

I know how you feel. I am STILL working on my bubble gum machine mod. When I started it I was planning on using a DFI LAN Party AGP board...

[artoodeeto]

aw heck, I got all y'all beat (dubious distinction at best). My crawler is on version 3, and I started work on version 1 about 9 years ago. :P It took a few months to build; I started version 2 in 2003 but didn't finish til 2006, and version 3 I started in April of 2007...If it weren't for the Exploratoreum exhibit next month, who knows when I'd have finished the thing. In the last 9 years...let's see...I've had..ummm...at least 5 different computers in there. Maybe 6 or 7, I don't really remember.
I am, howerver, looking forward to seeing this mod once you get going on it, should be awesome!

[SXRguyinMA]

If we want to talk about epically long mods one must not forget Tribaloverkill's Blackout.....

still waiting to see more of his drool-tastic skillz :bowdown:

[Kayin]

To my knowledge, he doesn't mod any more.

[Oneslowz28]

Hey guys, I have awesome news. Plextor is also sponsoring me with one of their new SSD drives. I should have it in the next few weeks. Since this mod will feature their Opticals they thought it would be good for it to feature one of their new SSD drives.

[Kayin]

You are a rat bastard. Srsly.

[Mark_Hardware]

:stupid: (mnus stupid of course)

[Oneslowz28]

Sorry :(

[SXRguyinMA]

thats awesome!!!

[DonT-FeaR]

i really think this is gunna look sick!

[billygoat333]

you are one lucky bastard. lol

[Oneslowz28]

Thanks BG

[Oneslowz28]

There will be an update tomorrow. I just need to get the pics ready.

Also want to say thanks to my newest sponsor. Seeed Studio (http://seeedstudio.com). They have donated a Rainbowduino (http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/rainbowduino-led-driver-platform-plug-and-shine-p-371.html?cPath=61_62) to control the RGB Leds in the build. THey also donated several other items that will be used on this project. More on them with the update tomorrow.

http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/images/large/product/rainbowduino_01_LRG.jpg

http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/images/product/rainbowblock.jpg

http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/images/product/DSC_2666.JPG

[Kayin]

When I see you at CES, I'm going to kick you. I just want you to be prepared.

Grats on the new stuff, and I may be announcing much of the same soon.

[SXRguyinMA]

nice! same concept as this unit (http://pcboard.ca/kits/led_rainbow/index.html) I used in Rockin Case, works mint :up:

[Oneslowz28]

When I see you at CES, I'm going to kick you. I just want you to be prepared.

Grats on the new stuff, and I may be announcing much of the same soon.

Can I make the RGB Led Matrix read "KICK ME" and attach it to my jacket first?


nice! same concept as this unit (http://pcboard.ca/kits/led_rainbow/index.html) I used in Rockin Case, works mint :up:
Yea your project gave me the idea. A post on hackaday pointed me to the rainbowduino a few months ago and I just put 2 and 2 together and got the idea.

[SXRguyinMA]

Yea your project gave me the idea. A post on hackaday pointed me to the rainbowduino a few months ago and I just put 2 and 2 together and got the idea.

yea the arduino powered one seems to have control over individual LEDs, which is sweet. the one I got just lights them all up at whatever color the IC chip says to, but the chip is easily reprogrammed for whatever sequence you want.

[Trace]

CJ, you've been sig quoted:

Can I make the RGB Led Matrix read "KICK ME" and attach it to my jacket first?

[Kayin]

Can I make the RGB Led Matrix read "KICK ME" and attach it to my jacket first?

Please do. As sight is one of my few good senses, this will help me find you when you run from me.

[Mark_Hardware]

Free stuff = win! way to go ceej lets see you put that stuff to good use now!:D

[Oneslowz28]

I once knew a very old and very wise modder. Some would even go as far as to call him a sage ...Ok so maybe he was not old or had not reached sage status yet but Kayin once told me that a mod is not truly yours until you shed blood on it. Well I guess I can call this mod mine now. Warning the following photos are graphic and depict skin filleted off the body.....ok on to the gore . THats what you are all waiting on anyway right?

.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/blood.preview.jpg
http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/skin.preview.jpg

[x88x]

Ouch, I hate it when that happens...why must case manufacturers insist on saving money by not rounding off all the edges :P

[Trace]

owe dude, that's gotta hurt

Hey, are you flipping me off???

[Oneslowz28]

No thats the ring finger...

[blueonblack]

You are a rat bastard. Srsly.


:stupid: (mnus stupid of course)


you are one lucky bastard. lol


When I see you at CES, I'm going to kick you. I just want you to be prepared.


Pretty much all of that, wrapped in a razor-wire bow and delivered via high-velocity projectile.

[Oneslowz28]

I love you guys.

[billygoat333]

thats a good chunk of skin! lol

[DonT-FeaR]

haha woo its yours :)

[Oneslowz28]

I had some free time to work on the case the other night. You have already seen the bloody photos so how about the rest of them?

This was the initial tear down session. I plan on painting the interior of the case black so I still need to drill out some rivets and sand everything down. I hope to get to that this weekend.


http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/caseprofile.jpg So here it is the Thermaltake Armor+ in all its glory.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/casefront.jpgThe front is missing the right side "door" due to the shipping damage.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/caseback.jpg The back is about on par with other cases except this one has room for 10 PCI cards. It also has 2 sets of water cooling tubing holes.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/topbroken.jpg Here is the damage done to the case during shipping. The only thing you can not see is the broken bracket that holds the right door on. Its just a hollow plastic tube so there is not much to see anyway.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/doorlatch.jpg Removing the side window is a little tricky. Not only is it protected by a lock you also have to push this thumbscrew down to unlatch the panel.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/casewindowoff.jpgAnd here she is with her window off. Notice the 7 5.25" bays and the removable cage of 5 HDD racks. The 2 racks on the bottom are for adding an additional 2 HDD. They are easily removed by removing 1 thumb screw each.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/doorhindge.jpg Removing the left side door is made easy by these hinges. All you have to do push in and slide it down.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/topscrews.jpg To remove the top you have to remove these four screws and the tray they hold down.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/top1.jpg With the screws removed the tray will come right out. Now you need to push the top forward from the back of the case. It will be snug and you may have to move some of the top panel wires to get it to slide.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/topbottom.jpg These 3 tabs are the reason you need to slide the top forward. They slide into slots on the case frame and lock the top plastic into place.

Somehow I forgot to take photos of the removal of the rest of the plastic pieces. The rest of the plastic is all held on by a few screws. The only hidden screws are on the bottom and are hidden by the case feet. Also be careful when removing the latches that hold the side panels on. There are tiny springs on each end and a screw in the middle of each that must first be removed. The tool-less clips that hold the PCI cards in can be removed as 1 piece by several screws on the back of the case.


http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/frameright.jpg And here is the bare frame. From the back side you can see all of the holes for the motherboard standoffs. These are all quite sharp and some have burs hanging off so be careful when handling the motherboard tray.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/frameleft.jpgThe empty frame from another angle.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/frametop.jpgThe top of the frame has a normal metal panel but has several cutouts for different cooling options.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/framebottom.jpgLooking at the frame bottom you can see yet another set of water cooling hose punch outs. I have been thinking about where I am going to locate the radiator and I believe this is a good option. I will weigh my options in the next few days and post my decision.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/Framefront.jpgWith the front removed we can see the gaping hole that will soon be filled by a LCD, fan controller, and an optical drive or two.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/mobotray.jpg Just a quick shot of the motherboard tray removed. Notice the bracing on each end. The black plastic is a bearing of sorts that slides into a plastic groove. This is repeated on the top. The end result is a very smooth sliding motherboard tray.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/toolessclip.jpg This is the 5.25" tool-less clip that filleted my skin off.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/toollessclip2.jpg To remove these clips you simply press down on the top of the black plastic and they pop out.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/bitsnpeices.jpg Here is everything I removed from the case. Quite a lot huh?

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/fans.jpg And finally here are the fans that the Thermaltake Armor+ comes with. A 220mm fan, 140mm fan and 120mm fan.

[Datech]

If you are going to do a case review, put it on the front page. ;)

As always, sweet score and we're all green with envy. Get to modding!

[billygoat333]

that is a bigassed fan. lol. case looks good naked. :D

[Trace]

o0o case pr0n! :D

Looking good, I can't wait to see some progress!

[SXRguyinMA]

http://www.postwhore.biz/albums/userpics/10082/popcorn.gif

[Luke122]

http://www.postwhore.biz/albums/userpics/10082/popcorn.gif

Ditto.

[Kayin]

My popcorn is stale, and my soda is flat. Curse you, purchased dvd-I mean curse you, CJ!

[Oneslowz28]

Sorry there hasn't been an update in a while. That will be changing soon guys. Got some stuff ready, all I need to do now is take some pics and write it up.

[Trace]

Yay! Updates! :up: Good job!

[Drum Thumper]

Sorry there hasn't been an update in a while. That will be changing soon guys. Got some stuff ready, all I need to do now is take some pics and write it up.

Uh huh. Sure. I'll probably get Frankenstripe Mach 3 done before you get this done!

Yes sir, that is a challenge.

[Luke122]

OOOoooooo.... FIGHT! FIGHT! FIGHT!

[Oneslowz28]

Not if I give you so much work to do here at TBCS that you have no time to mod..... Nah no reason for us both to be jammed up with work. I cant wait for your mod to be finished. I was thinking about coding a Red and White LED light show for it.

This mod will be updated next week. I am just need to break out the dremel and cut some metal and then file everything down.

[SXRguyinMA]

http://www.postwhore.biz/albums/userpics/10082/popcorn.gif

[jiggiwiddit]

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/topbroken.jpg Here is the damage done to the case during shipping. The only thing you can not see is the broken bracket that holds the right door on. Its just a hollow plastic tube so there is not much to see anyway.

At least the ashtray survived... :D jk

[Oneslowz28]

LOL

Thermaltake sent me a new top piece as soon as I notified them of the damage

[Oneslowz28]

I got some work done yesterday. Update this weekend.

I have decided to mount the Thermaltake TMG 2 120.2 radiator under the floor of the case. There is enough room under it for it to fit. Unfortunately the holes thermaltake pre punched into the floor do not match up to this radiator. So I will have to have a custom floor plate laser cut from acrylic for this.

[Datech]

You still aren't done with this yet? What a slacker :rolleyes:

[Oneslowz28]

Patience young Daniel-son. The best mods always take the longest. After all Doom 3 was not built in a day!

[Datech]

Maybe when I come back that will be my niche. Speed-mods... Lord knows the last two case mods I did turned out great cause I took so much time. Hey, go to the ForSale section and buy some of my stuff. It's tuition time again...

[Oneslowz28]

If I buy your stuff how will I be able to afford my new Phenom II x4 rig

[SXRguyinMA]

lol

less chit chat. more mod mod :banana: :D

[Oneslowz28]

Yes it is true. I am posting an update!!! I haven't done much due to not having any free time the last month or so. Being the Editor in Chief of this site and owning a photography business are great ways to remove free time from your life.


The first thing on my list was to disassemble the frame so I could sand and paint it easily. So after 10 minutes of drilling out rivets I was left with this...

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/frame1.jpg

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/frame2.jpg

Before the frame is painted I need to make a few cuts and holes in the sheet metal. The first one will be the mounting point for the Danger Den Fillport Reservoir.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/Plasticmarked.jpgThe first thing to do was pick a spot on top of the case that allowed me to place the reservoir with out interfering with the elements on the top of the case or the ones on the inside. I chose this location because it would be partially hidden by the lid on top of the case and it completely cleared all of the interior elements.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/holeinplastic.jpgThen I used a 1" hole saw to cut the hole out. Note that I did this on the damaged piece of plastic for mockup. I am glad I did this because the hole saws I purchased from harbor freight turned out to be slightly out of round and this caused some unwanted scaring of the plastic around the hole. The hole in the replacement plastic will be drilled out using my step bits.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/holemarked.jpgWith the hole in the plastic cut it was time to transfer the hole to the steel top. I simply traced the hole with a pencil and then found the center.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/holetop.jpg I gave the HF hole saws a try again. They were marked for use on "wood, steel, plastic and composites." Unfortunately the only thing I accomplished was to melt the teeth on the 1" hole saw. So I dug around in my tool box and found my large step bit. The Danger Den Fill port only requires a 3/4" hole but will still seal in holes as large as 1 1/4". I went with a 1" hole to add a little room for adjustment in case something did get in the way.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/mountedlip.jpgSo I test fitted the res and found another problem. Thermaltake rolled the edges on the hole where the "storage tray" goes. Rolled edges are something we asked for for ages and now I have to destroy one so my res fits flush and seals properly.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/liptogrind.jpgThe red lines mark off the area I needed to remove. So out comes the dremel.


http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/liplifted.jpgI ground down a good portion of the lip before using a thin screwdriver to lift it up. Notice the rust under the lifted lip. With this lifted I continued to grind until everything was nice and flat.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/lipground.jpgI filed down the sharp edges and used the dremel to add a nice slope where the lip ends now meet the ground down area. Primer during paint should fill in the minor imperfections left.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/fillrestestmount.jpgTime to test fit the res again. PERFECT!!! Nice and flat.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/testmount.jpgThe res will interfere with one of the top 140mm intake fans but that is nothing I can not fix at a later date.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/mountedplastic.jpgAnd with the plastic on the case top. There is plenty of room for me to place a funnel in the fill port hole. I plan on closing this up with a rubber grommet of some sorts. Any ideas or links?

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/fillresmounted.jpgAnd a side shot. She is going to look good in the case.

As mentioned earlier I plan on mounting the radiator in the bottom of the case. Unfortunately the factory stamped radiator mounting location does not fit Thermatake TMG2 Radiator I was sponsored with for this project. So I have decided to cut that section of the floor from the case and replace it with a laser cut black acrylic radiator mounting plate. To do this I needed to make a template of the radiator for some test fitting .

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/techdrawing.jpgTechnical drawing is something I have always found fun. So this task was very relaxing for me. I had an old desk calender laying around so I used the cardboard backing as my template material.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/Techpartialcut.jpgWith the drawing finished it was time to cut it out with an Exacto knife.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/Radtemplatecutout.jpgAnd after some careful cuts she was finished.

http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/Radtemplatecutoutonrad.jpgA test fit to make sure my measurements were accurate.

Well that's is for tonight. I will try and have another update posted by this weekend. So what do you think so far?

[Trace]

Finally we get an update!
Looks good! Keep it up!

[billygoat333]

I love your workbench. and nice start!

[Kayin]

Lasers are for wusses. Come on, dremel that sucker!

[Oneslowz28]

Finally we get an update!
Looks good! Keep it up!

Yea it took me long enough didn't it. I am close to having enough for another, just need to sand down 3 more parts and paint.


I love your workbench. and nice start!

Thanks BG! Its still a work in progress. Should be getting in some nice banners from a few of my sponsors to replace the monster banners. I also have some shelving and a few custom tool racks to install in the near future.


Lasers are for wusses. Come on, dremel that sucker!But LASSSOOOOORRRED acrylic is 99% ready to go and its much faster.

[Oneslowz28]

I had an idea the other day about the water pump I will be using on this build. Its not the most aesthetically pleasing pump so I want to design a cover for it. This being a military themed build a brick of C4 instantly came to mind. But I want to take it a step further and turn it into a brick of C4 with a digital timer on it. The timer will actually be a temperature monitor that will tell me the temp of the water in the loop.

So I did some searching and found a few bricks of C4 and some have timers on them. I am hoping that some of you can post a few photos or renders of more C4 or time bombs that are square in design.

Here are the ones I found.

http://thebestcasescenario.com/oneslowz28/personal/c4-1.jpg
http://thebestcasescenario.com/oneslowz28/personal/c4-2.jpg
http://thebestcasescenario.com/oneslowz28/personal/c4-3.jpg
http://thebestcasescenario.com/oneslowz28/personal/c4-4.jpg

[SXRguyinMA]

I like the 1st or 2nd the best. great idea!

[LiTHiUM0XiD3]

the first or the second r the only ones that rly apply to this build if you want a clock, i say the first one looks a lil more high tech :)

but the second looks like the clock piece is bigger which gives you more room to work with..

im rly not sure heh

the 5th is remote controlled :)

[Oneslowz28]

Just a quick sketch. This is just one of the designs in my head.
http://thebestcasescenario.com/oneslowz28/personal/c4-sketch.jpg

[blueonblack]

Your Crayon work is getting so much better. Good job staying in the lines.

[Oneslowz28]

Its colored pencils :p

[billygoat333]

Your Crayon work is getting so much better. Good job staying in the lines.

bahahaha.

awesome.


and love the actual sketching on grid paper. makes me miss drafting class.

[Oneslowz28]

Thanks BG. I was bored and had the pad lying around. Will model something in SU later.

[billygoat333]

I just started playing with sketchup... its not that bad of a program actually. but pen and paper/colored pencils and grid paper are the way to go! haha

[slaveofconvention]

Hehe - just man up and admit to it....

Is it a bird?
Is it a plane?
No, it's CRAYOLA boy!!!

[Oneslowz28]

I did some work today on a sketchup model of the C4 time bomb water pump cover. This is just about 5 minutes of work. I will try to do some more on it tomorrow.

http://thebestcasescenario.com/oneslowz28/personal/c4_straps.jpg

http://thebestcasescenario.com/oneslowz28/personal/straps.jpg

[Oneslowz28]

I got some sanding done today on the thin rails and a few other parts of the frame. Had to quit due to hand cramps. (early signs of carpel tunnel?) What ever they coat the inside of these cases with is super easy to remove with 320 grit paper. I hope I can have everything ready for paint by this weekend but that might be stretching it.

I am still trying to figure Kerkythea so I can make my water pump cover render look realistic. The decision has been made to create a custom display for it using an arduino and LCD.

[x88x]

Had to quit due to hand cramps. (early signs of carpel tunnel?)

Probably not. Carpal tunnel is in..well, the carpal tunnel, where the nerves and ligaments enter the hand. ..oh, and it hurts like a b****. :dead:

[Drum Thumper]

I got some sanding done today on the thin rails and a few other parts of the frame. Had to quit due to hand cramps. (early signs of carpel tunnel?)

Lay off the fireman drills? :P

[Oneslowz28]

There will be an update this weekend I think. Depends on some stuff getting delivered.

[Oneslowz28]

Hears a quick teaser. And yes the box is FULL!

http://thebestcasescenario.com/oneslowz28/personal/bp1.jpg

[x88x]

Heheh, congrats! Let's see what the real bitspower sent you. :P

[Oneslowz28]

Ok I guess I can share some photos. I would like to thank Bitspower for sponsoring this build. I will get a logo and link up later today.

Bitspower hooked me up with:


22 |Bitspower Premium G1/4" Black Sparkle High Flow 3/8" (1/2" OD) Compression Fitting*

4 |Bitspower Black Sparkle "T" Fitting - 180 Degree

2 |Bitspower G 1/4" Black Sparkle 45 Degree IG 1/4" Adapter

2 |Bitspower G 1/4" Black Sparkle 90 Degree IG 1/4" Adapter*

2 |Bitspower G 1/4" Black Sparkle Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting*

3 |Bitspower Crystal "Stop" Fitting G1/4" with O-Ring & 5mm LED Holder*

2 |Bitspower BP-BSWP-C25 Black Sparkle G1/4" Fitting Spacer*

4 |Bitspower G1/4" Stop Fitting with O-ring - Black Matte Finish*

Purchased from x88x

2|Bitspower Case Top Water Fill/ Through Hole Fitting Set - Shiny Silver Finish*

4 |Bitspower G1/4" Stop Fitting with O-ring*

4 |Bitspower Premium G1/4" Fitting Spacer*

2 |Bitspower Dual G1/4" High Flow Fitting - Male to Male Thread

2 |Bitspower Multi-Transfer Base (Coupler) - Set of 2*

2 |Bitspower Premium G1/4" "Stubby" High Flow 3/8" Fitting*




http://thebestcasescenario.com/oneslowz28/personal/bp2.jpgBitspower was kind enough to send me 22 Black Sparkle 3/8" Compression fittings.

http://thebestcasescenario.com/oneslowz28/personal/bp3.jpgHere is a pic with all of my Bitspower bling. Some of these were purchased from our own x88x.

[SXRguyinMA]

nice score!

[x88x]

Nice additions. :D

I switched from my old Delrin fillport to a new 'Shiny Silver' when i was mounting the Monsta on Zeus (delrin was too big), and I really like the look a lot better. The metal ones feel so much more solid, and just look great. :D

[Oneslowz28]

I dunno which I like better. The derlin fill port I have from DD that came with the fill port res that I bought from blueonblack has a very solid feel to it. It might be because it screws into the res with the large threads.

[x88x]

Oh, don't get me wrong, the delrin one is really solid too, it's just that the metal one feels so much nicer.

[Oneslowz28]

I plan on building a water pump cover that has a 16x2 or 20x4 LCD that will display several parameters about its WC loop including: 2 temperature locations, Pump RPM liquid flow rate and possibly even an audio alarm in the event of pump / flow failure.

This is what I have so far.


http://thebestcasescenario.com/oneslowz28/personal/Arduino_temp_display_layout.jpg

The 2 10k thermistors are 2 temp sensors from Bits Power which use a 10k thermistor epoxied into the stop fitting. The 10k Trim pot is there to set the contrast on the LCD.



//Arduino Controlled 2 sensor Temp Display. Uses 2 10k thermistors and a 10k pull up resistor.
//Code By Charles Gantt http://themakersworkbench.com
//Code based on Thermistor2 Elaborate code found here http://www.arduino.cc/playground/ComponentLib/Thermistor2
//This code was developed as a side project to my Call of Duty Modern Warfare 2 Case mod found at http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21320

#include <LiquidCrystal.h>
#include <math.h>
LiquidCrystal lcd(7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12);
double Thermistor(int RawADC) {
long Resistance;
double Temp;
Resistance=((10240000/RawADC) - 10000);
Temp = log(Resistance);
Temp = 1 / (0.001129148 + (0.000234125 * Temp) + (0.0000000876741 * Temp * Temp * Temp));
Temp = Temp - 273.15;
return Temp;
}

void printDouble(double val, byte precision) {

lcd.print (int(val));
if( precision > 0) {
lcd.print(".");
unsigned long frac, mult = 1;
byte padding = precision -1;
while(precision--) mult *=10;
if(val >= 0) frac = (val - int(val)) * mult;
else frac = (int(val) - val) * mult;
unsigned long frac1 = frac;
while(frac1 /= 10) padding--;
while(padding--) Serial.print("0");
lcd.print(frac,DEC) ;
}
}

void setup() {
Serial.begin(115200);
lcd.begin(16, 2);
}

#define ThermistorPIN 0
#define Thermistor2PIN 1
double temp;
void loop() {
lcd.setCursor(0, 0);
temp=Thermistor(analogRead(ThermistorPIN));
lcd.print("Sensor 1 ");
printDouble(temp,2);
lcd.print((char)223);
lcd.print("C ");
lcd.setCursor(0, 1);
temp=Thermistor(analogRead(Thermistor2PIN));
lcd.print("Sensor 2 ");
printDouble(temp,2);
lcd.print((char)223);
lcd.print("C ");
delay(100);
}

What I have left to do:

Figure out flow meter
Figure out how to read pump rpm (PPM signal on yellow wire?)
Write code
Set alarm parameters.


My fritzing page on this project. (Download all the files there)
http://fritzing.org/projects/arduino-controlled-pc-water-cooling-info-display/

[SXRguyinMA]

lookin good!

[Oneslowz28]

This is not the only update this weekend. I also have some painting and metal fab stuff to post. The painting is a set back though. (bad batch) More on that later though. I am off to the grind now.

[Kayin]

DDCs output RPM on the blue wire. Use that, and a volumetric calculation to output flow.

[Oneslowz28]

With much help from Crenn we finally got this figured out.

The water pump I have selected outputs RPM signals similar to a standard three wire PC fan. In fact you can plug the signal wire to the CPU fan header on a motherboard and if your pump dies or stops sending a signal it will shut your PC down to prevent a CPU failure due to heat. While a nice feature for safety, it will be much cooler to see the RPM at which your pump is running than knowing your CPU wont melt if it dies right?

Since the Fan and Pump RPM signals are so similar, and my water pump has not arrived yet I decided to dev using a 120mm PC fan. The following schematic should explain how to wire things up.


http://themakersworkbench.com/sites/default/files/images/Fan_RPM_Arduino_0.jpg

This is pretty simple to hook up. First you need to run the Signal wire (almost always yellow) to the breadboard. Then from it connect a jumper wire to Arduino Digital Pin 2. Also from the sensor wire you need to connect a 10k resistor to the Arduino's 5V pin. This is a simple pull-up resistor. We also need to make sure that we connect the fans ground line to one of the Arduino's ground pins. Next just connect the fans power wire to the PSUs 12v line and the fans ground wire to the PSUs ground.

Now upload the following code to your Seeeduino, and then open the serial terminal. Again I would like to thank Crenn for his help with the code.


//code by Crenn from http://thebestcasescenario.com //project by Charles Gantt from http://themakersworkbench.com

//Varibles used for calculations
int NbTopsFan;
int Calc;
char counter;
char flag;
unsigned long time[2];

//The pin location of the sensor
int hallsensor = 2;

//Defines the structure for multiple fans and their dividers
typedef struct{
char fantype;
unsigned int fandiv;
}fanspec;

//Definitions of the fans
fanspec fanspace[3]={{0,1},{1,2},{2,8}};

char fan = 0; //This is the variable used to select the fan and it's divider, set 1 for unipolar hall effect sensor
//and 2 for bipolar hall effect sensor

//This is the function that the interupt calls
void rpm()
{
if (counter == 0)
time[0]=millis();
if (counter == 100){
time[1]=millis();
flag=1;
cli(); //Disable interrupts
}
}

//This is the setup function where the serial port is initialised,
//and the interrupt is attached
void setup()
{
pinMode(hallsensor, INPUT);
Serial.begin(9600);
attachInterrupt(0, rpm, RISING);
}
void loop ()
{
NbTopsFan = 0; //Set NbTops to 0 ready for calculations
sei(); //Enables interrupts
while(flag==0);
flag=0;
counter=0;
Calc = (((60*100)/(time[1]-time[0]))/fanspace[fan].fandiv);
Serial.print (Calc, DEC); //Prints the number calculated above
Serial.print (" rpm\r\n"); //Prints " rpm" and a new line
}

You should see an RPM output in the serial terminal. It is accurate within 10-15 RPM of the fans actual RPM which is close enough for me. If your RPM output seems to be double what it should be your fan may have a bipolar Hall efect sensor and its counting each pass of the magnets pole as a single RPM when each should be 1/2 an RPM. No worries though as this is an easy fix. Just simply change the " char fan = 0 code from 0 to 1. Upload the modified code and you should be seeing accurate RPM numbers.

Next time we will cover how to measure and display the liquid flow rate of the system.

What I have left to do:


Work out flow meter design and schematic
Determine alarm parameters
Complete code and refine it.


My fritzing page on this project. (Download all the files there)
Reading PC Fan / Water Pump RPM with an Arduino (http://fritzing.org/projects/reading-pc-fan-rpm-with-an-arduino/)

[SXRguyinMA]

nice work!

[Oneslowz28]

Thanks!!! I am hoping for an actual work update this week. I have most of the frame parts painted, just need to sand down the drive cage and rear panel then paint.

[Oneslowz28]

Well I have suffered a minor setback. :( I guess the "self etching" primer I used to prime the sanded parts was bad because I slightly bumped one of the finished frame rails this morning with the handle of some scissors and a 1" flake of clear, paint and primer just popped off. I could touch the rest of the paint around the flake and it would just lift up from the metal. I really wish I had a working sandblaster, it would make things so much easier.

The surface was roughed with 220 grit, cleaned with wax and grease remover (automotive surface prep) and then shot with 3m self etching primer.(bought from walmart). So this next time around I am not going to play around. I just called the automotive paint store and put an order in for a quart of epoxy sealer primer, quart of ppg black base and quart of ppg clear along with all the supporting reducers.

I have a wedding to photograph in about 3 hours and they close for the day before its over so I will not be able to pick it up until Monday. I think I am also going to order of qt of Grey and White also and use it instead of the createx airbrush paint for the camo paint job.

On a side note I am 75% finished with my Arduino Controlled PC Water Cooling Information Center, and will soon be starting on the water pump cover that will house the LCD.

[bfinche]

I saw your post on measuring the flow. I'm not sure if you have seen this module, but it looks like what you need. Good luck with your project.

http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/g12-water-flow-sensor-p-635.html?cPath=144_151

Bobby