project learning?

[altec]

If this doesn't make sense, my bad. It is 4AM, and I'm getting ready to go to sleep.

The head gasket can just be wiped down, and stuck back on. That is, if it is in good condition. If it has signs that it was leaking (Soot is a easy sign there), and any kinks are a problem.

When you had the piston out did you look at the rings? I always give them a close look. If the edges of them feel sharp you need rings. Tech Tip- Take some oil and stick it in the cylinder with the head off. Leave it for a while, and come back. If you haven't lost any, or lost very little your not going to have any blow-by issues.

Unless I missed something, what you pictured is the crank shaft, not the cam? Your crank looks fine. All the contacting areas look fine. the light surface rust is on the casting, and areas not contacting anything sensitive. Wire brush, and some degreaser is fine. Just stay away from the area where the connecting rod rides. Which I assume is good? No galling, or metal from the rod stuck to it?

Oh, if your worried about the valves at all you can lap them easy enough. Google should point you in the right direction there. Easy insurance.

[blaze15301]

If this doesn't make sense, my bad. It is 4AM, and I'm getting ready to go to sleep.

The head gasket can just be wiped down, and stuck back on. That is, if it is in good condition. If it has signs that it was leaking (Soot is a easy sign there), and any kinks are a problem.

When you had the piston out did you look at the rings? I always give them a close look. If the edges of them feel sharp you need rings. Tech Tip- Take some oil and stick it in the cylinder with the head off. Leave it for a while, and come back. If you haven't lost any, or lost very little your not going to have any blow-by issues.

Unless I missed something, what you pictured is the crank shaft, not the cam? Your crank looks fine. All the contacting areas look fine. the light surface rust is on the casting, and areas not contacting anything sensitive. Wire brush, and some degreaser is fine. Just stay away from the area where the connecting rod rides. Which I assume is good? No galling, or metal from the rod stuck to it?

Oh, if your worried about the valves at all you can lap them easy enough. Google should point you in the right direction there. Easy insurance.

ive already cleaned everything. the engine is almost back together i just have to order a few parts before ill have it running again.

[blaze15301]

update

today i basically reassembled the engine with a few exceptions. i may have to order a new clutch since my is in 2 pieces and wont go back together. i have to order a new rocker arm my cracked. i had to make a custom governor arm rod fromt he old one and a custom return spring. im hoping to have this running the engine not the entire bike by the end of this month. if anyone has any suggestions of how to get the clutch to go back let me know ill try to pist pics. but the one end is mushroomed over. im not even sure how the hell i pulled it apart.

my custom rod with some JB weld holding it together. best stuff ever.

my return spring.

[blaze15301]

well guys this is on ice for while until i figure out why im not getting gas to the chamber or why its not firing. i have bought a new coil and everything so i have no idea. the compression is really good on it i may have to tear her down again.

[Snowman]

check spark before you tear it all down

[blaze15301]

check spark before you tear it all down

i did i bought a new coil pack because the last one was really rusty.

[altec]

No reason to tear it down. The ignition systems are pretty simple. You can trouble shoot it.

I went and spit balled about the issue with my Father. My first thought is the kill switch being FUBAR'd. His thought is the coil gap. Did you set it correctly when you install it? The gap between the coil, and the magnet pickup should be about two sheets of thin paper. Obviously as well the flywheel needs to be seated fully for the magnet to line up as well.

After you get that done you can look at your fuel issue. I would have someone pull the cord while you hold the butterfly open and spray starting fluid into the carb. If it fires, you know it is a carb issue. If it still refuses to start then it is a intake valve issue. Either it is 180* out, or just simply isn't opening for whatever reason.

[blaze15301]

No reason to tear it down. The ignition systems are pretty simple. You can trouble shoot it.

I went and spit balled about the issue with my Father. My first thought is the kill switch being FUBAR'd. His thought is the coil gap. Did you set it correctly when you install it? The gap between the coil, and the magnet pickup should be about two sheets of thin paper. Obviously as well the flywheel needs to be seated fully for the magnet to line up as well.

After you get that done you can look at your fuel issue. I would have someone pull the cord while you hold the butterfly open and spray starting fluid into the carb. If it fires, you know it is a carb issue. If it still refuses to start then it is a intake valve issue. Either it is 180* out, or just simply isn't opening for whatever reason.

the gap between the fly wheel and the coil is 0.010 i bought a gauge. i know the carb has gas in it but it isnt getting to the piston the spark plug is clean. the fly wheel is set on nice and tight and seated properly. i just basically hand tighten the valves and rocker plate on because i couldn't find the right gap for them or figure out how that worked.

[CorsePerVita]

Updates? Really looking forward to the finished results, you were putting a ton of work into it!

[blaze15301]

Updates? Really looking forward to the finished results, you were putting a ton of work into it!

oh i actually forgot about this. i had a few things come up but turned out the engine died on me i plan on replacing it as soon as i get my new project finished.

here she is.

when i got it.

2 weeks later.

today.

the mini bike will eventually be done. thank you very much for reminding me about it.