Displaying workings of hard drive for Mod

[NakuraD]

I want to build a case that can show off the inner working of the computer that some people don't normally see. So I want to take the top cover off a hard drive and mount it to a plexi sheet (thus sealing it again), I would like to do the same to the CD/DVD drive.
The question is whether there would be any problems with the hard drives being displayed like this?
Will they cause enough heat to bend/melt/otherwise marr the plexi?
Or do they need to have some kind of vent mechanism on the top?
I was planning to seal the drive/plexi join with some kind of silicone to keep them from getting coated in dust so that shouldn't really be a problem.

Is there anything else I should know before going ahead with this?
I'm still in the planning phase of this mod/case build but it would be better to know what is possible before I get my plans finalised.

I suppose on the same line of thought, would there be any problem with taking the PSU components out of it's case and displaying them around too?
I plan to have a wind tunnel style air cooling system so I don't think heating should be a problem.

The basic idea around this mod would be to have every part of a computer that is normally hidden behind a case open to view while it is working. Still thinking whether I should go through with it so any advice would be great.
Thanks to everyone out there.

[TheMainMan]

The problem with doing this is, from what I read when I had a similar thought, is that unless you have access to an electronics manufacturing clean room you will get dust in your drive and it will kill it prematurely. If you did this on an older drive you were willing to part with you could avoid data loss by not having any data on it but still have it hooked up.

The other option is to get a WD Raptor X which comes factory made with a window.
Product details here.

[NakuraD]

Damn that's a bit of a bummer. Thanks for your reply anyway.

I'm assuming that the CD drive wouldn't have the same problem since the CD's themselves would be introducing dirt every time you load one.
The hard drives and the DVD drive are pretty much the only mechanically operating parts of a computer so my idea may not end up as impressive.
Hmm, thoughts to be considered...

[x88x]

Yeah, an ODD would work fine, you don't have to sorry about dust as much with that; in fact, I seem to remember seeing someone around here do that before...

It is possible to do the HDDs, but like TheMainMan said, there's not much room for error.

[NakuraD]

Thanks guys.
I'll probably go for the Raptor or something similar if this comes to fruition. I have plenty of scratch build ideas but I have to decide on the one I like best before getting down to the planning.

[diluzio91]

i know alot of people who do this use the bathroom, close it up for a few min, and run the shower to settle the dust... its still extremely dangerous to your drive though... if you really want to do it then just pick up some old ones to practice on first.

[NakuraD]

Thanks everyone.
I think I will just have to go with a Raptor if this project comes to fruition.

Another question for this project is whether anyone knows whether it is possible to make a plexi cube for a case that doesn't look like it has been glued together?
What I mean by that is I want the bonded edges to look like they have been heated and bent into shape all the way around the top and the sides. <edit> It could just be bent if the edges you normally see like the top and front can be smooth while the back is just glued, if anyone can think of a good net to start with. </edit> The bottom isn't important because I would want to be able to lift the top off to get to the parts.

Does that make any sense? The overall idea is to have a cube made out of semi-mirrored plexi that can sit on my desk that looks solid but when I turn it on it will have soft lighting to subtly show the insides. I think the rounded edges would really add to the looks.

Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance

<edit> I'm vaguely interested in buying an airbrush kit but I have no idea hwat to look for. I found this on ebay and while it might sound like a ridiculous idea it is cheap. Nail Art Airbrush Compressor Kit.
What should I be looking for when I look at other kits, compressors or guns to know whether what I'm buying is good enough? There are other seperate compressors and attachments for reasonable prices, about $260 total.

Another thing, what kind of prices should I be expecting to pay for a watercooling setup? I would want to cool the CPU, Northbridge and maybe the graphics card if I buy anything high end. I'm thinking of watercooling because I'm planning on having as few fan openings on the outside of the case as possible.
On that note, is it possible to move or modify the I/O ports so it isn't just one large opening and I can set the ports in different places around the box? I'm OK at soldering but I guess I would have to buy a better soldering iron to be able to solder and desolder cleanly. Anythin I need to know before considering this seriously?
</edit>

[diluzio91]

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95810

Something like this for a starter brush is great... ive been playing around with it a tiny bit, and it will definatly come into play in my next mod... for a compressor look at this maybe?

http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...ord=compressor

I just use the massive compressor in my stepdad's shop...
this style, not this model though

http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...ord=compressor

[x88x]

SgtM did a review of (I think) that very Central Pneumatics airbrush a couple years ago:
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/f...ad.php?t=13221

Seems like it's actually pretty nice quality (for the price, at least). I would second the recommendation to start with something decent but cheap before spending that much on it.

[mDust]

Another question for this project is whether anyone knows whether it is possible to make a plexi cube for a case that doesn't look like it has been glued together?
What I mean by that is I want the bonded edges to look like they have been heated and bent into shape all the way around the top and the sides. <edit> It could just be bent if the edges you normally see like the top and front can be smooth while the back is just glued, if anyone can think of a good net to start with. </edit> The bottom isn't important because I would want to be able to lift the top off to get to the parts.

Does that make any sense? The overall idea is to have a cube made out of semi-mirrored plexi that can sit on my desk that looks solid but when I turn it on it will have soft lighting to subtly show the insides. I think the rounded edges would really add to the looks.

I've been experimenting with just what you're talking about. Literally. For 2-way mirror acrylic, you can't bend it or the silvered film finish will be ruined. What you can do though is cut the sides as accurately as possible, sand any cutting marks out of them with 400, 800, 1000, 1500, and then 2000 grit paper. Then use polishing compound on the edges with a dremel or something. After you wipe off the excess, you will be able to see through the edges of the acrylic just as well as through its sides.
Next, get yourself some weldon #3 or #4 and a syringe. This step is called solvent welding...because that's exactly what this solvent does. Setup your sides however you like so they are at 90 degrees...I used a triangular metal brace and some clamps, others simply used a block of wood and tape...whatever floats your boat. Fill the syringe with a bit of weldon in a well ventilated area and run the syringe along the seam gently releasing the solvent. Due to capillary action, the solvent will replace the air between the two pieces. If the cut edge wasn't sanded and polished perfectly, air bubbles will result between the pieces. Since 2-way mirror acrylic is relatively expensive, I suggest you practice this with regular scrap until you get a bubble free joint. To be honest, I'm still working on that part myself.
Other tips that I've learned: don't leave the cap off the weldon if you aren't using it...it evaporates at incredible speeds. It only takes a few minutes for a capped syringe completely full of it to evaporate away.
Solvent welding will only work on a horizontal joint due to gravity. It will flow right out of a vertical joint and will mar the surface of the acrylic below it.
With the 2-way mirror acrylic: I used painter's tape along lines I wanted to cut to try to reduce the risk of chipping/melting/etc. I found that the "mirror" finish is just a thin film and it easily peels off. Don't put any tape or anything on the silvered side. It will be fine on the other side though. Along the same line of thought, I wondered if the weldon would destroy the mirror effect. I'm happy to say that it doesn't affect it at all. I put several drops on the surface and they evaporated away with no effect whatsoever. Don't get it on the surface of the acrylic though.

I'm learning as I go, but ask any questions if you do this and I'll help where I can.