USS EURISKO - Intrepid Mark II Class

[ASPHIAX]

Here is another update.
Got tired of the depron work and descided to go and do some hardware work.

This is my first serious build and I was able to get some execellent hardware.

Lets start with the Gigabyte motherboard. Isnt she pretty with them golden accents and good eye-candy factor!

Unfortunately I am going to have to do some work on it. I want to completely Watercool the EURISKO and I will have to change out the stock motherboard cooling elements.
This one is going in the cabinet with special hardware at the office. Beautifull piece of technology!

And these I hve to fit onto the mobo. From left to right; EK Mosfet Waterblock, Koolance 370 CPU waterblock and finally the EK NF200/SB Waterblock

Installing them took about an hour. Always a fine fiddly work work with them standoffs

While installing the 2600K the first thing you notice is the split in the processor socket.

I am not going to push the setup to its absolute limits (but I will give it a good run) So I opted for 8Gb Corsair 1600 CL7 RAM. Looks good and has ditto reviews, so we will see!

Also fitted all the Bitspower fittings. Which Fittings? Well these :

Credz to Vincent!

This is how I am intending to fit all the hardware. (a plexiglass sheet will cover the mdf)

Put the tubing in its place also to see if I had enough. Need to order a couple of feet more!

Well that was it for today, thansk for watching!
ASPHIAX

[ASPHIAX]

Here is another update.
Had a couple of bad weeks modding wize ...
All sorts of deliveries didnt show up when I had the time to work on them and once they came they send the wrong stuff. Very annoying and I am starting to worry about the coolermaster contest. especially now I have decided to rebuild the entire warp nacelle setup. but thats for later in this post. let start at the beginning ...

I spend several hours thrying to think my way out of the warp nacelle setup as I need to be able to get to the components inside to change out a tube or fix a leak.

So I made a plug to go over the front and back of the nacelle.

Had all sorts of idea's on how to be able to remove them and some people on the dutch forums were really creative with magnets and stuff. I decided on using velcro. Unfortunately I was only able to put really small strips of the stuff in the edges of the MDF. I ordered the heavy duty velcro and now when I remove the plug, I take the whole velcro with it. To much adhesive power is a bad thing here , LOL

Also the inside towards the nacelle needs to be nice so I made some ridges out of depron. I can't finalise the nacelles because I dont have the led/mircocontroller setup yet so I had to fix everything with tape ...

It all needs to be filled out with putty and sanded

You can start to see why I decided to redo the whole warp nacelles setup.
To fat, clunky, too high, relative size compared to main body, pointing inwards, just doesnt ring my perfectionist bell .

The front and back have been fitted with a plug, but I also have to be able to get to the fittings in the pylon for placing tyraps or tube clamps.

Solution was an MDF panel that is screwed in. Just have to make the detailling on the outside so i can reach them at all times. Challenges , challenges, challenges ...

Here is a picture of what I am planning to do. Get the res out of the casing and make a new hexagon side panel. This will reduce the courners making it more fluid and remove some fatness... (black is what it was, red what it will become.

Bottom picture is what I initially had in mind but a ellipsoid res is nowhere to be found.

Visio version of the design

The new nacelle compared to the old. The dif is huge !
and if its to small now compared to the main body, thats easily fixed with depron detailling

Nice big surface area for the light to come out of the nacelle, even when it is in warp configuration.

All the fittings are now within the MDF, this resolves a lot of tension the tubing was placcing on the XPS foam. It has got some extra room to fit the led lights now. Just have to think of another way to get to the fittings it once its finished. All good (time-consuming) Fun !!!

[Fuganater]

Looks sweet man. One question, maybe I missed it but where is your fill port? How are you going to fill and drain the system?

[ASPHIAX]

Looks sweet man. One question, maybe I missed it but where is your fill port? How are you going to fill and drain the system?

Good question, one I asked myself also when I put the hardware together.

I ordered a Bitspower Q block and fitted a fillport directly onto the ingress of the pump.

[Beta-brain]

Great work mate, I've just read through the whole project and as a ST fan myself your doing it proud.

You probably don't ever want to work with fibreglass again but if you do this might help.
I used to work with fibreglass for a job making everything from canoes to water tanks I can't be sure from the photos but it looks like you used a cross woven glass matting for some of the work if that's correct it's why you had problems getting the mat to form into the corners and angles it's too thick and doesn't break down like glass mat made from chopped strands, woven should be sandwiched between layers of matting making a laminate woven mat on it's own can be subject to de-lamination or 'peeling' from surface, the woven matting is best used on relatively flat surfaces with simple corners and angles it's not really necessary for small unstressed jobs.

When laying up the first few layers on a complicated shape you need to use glass tissue matting which as it's name suggests is very thin like tissue paper and is very easy to work into tight corners and angles then use thicker matting (not woven) on top to reinforce as required,

Not sure what glass fibre resin you used but most resin goes a greenish colour as it cures and hardens and you can see the matting you've laid down go green, this is a good time before it hardens completely to trim a lot of the excess matting off the edges with a stanley knife it's called, duh, "green trimming" and can save a lot of time and is easier than trimming the remaining hardened glass later.

Keep up the good work, plus rep

[ASPHIAX]

Great work mate, I've just read through the whole project and as a ST fan myself your doing it proud.

Best compliment I can get ! Thansk man!

You probably don't ever want to work with fibreglass again but if you do this might help.

Well, the first time was a complete disaster, second time went a little better and the third time it went kinda ok!

I used to work with fibreglass for a job making everything from canoes to water tanks I can't be sure from the photos but it looks like you used a cross woven glass matting for some of the work if that's correct it's why you had problems getting the mat to form into the corners and angles it's too thick and doesn't break down like glass mat made from chopped strands, woven should be sandwiched between layers of matting making a laminate woven mat on it's own can be subject to de-lamination or 'peeling' from surface, the woven matting is best used on relatively flat surfaces with simple corners and angles it's not really necessary for small unstressed jobs.

When laying up the first few layers on a complicated shape you need to use glass tissue matting which as it's name suggests is very thin like tissue paper and is very easy to work into tight corners and angles then use thicker matting (not woven) on top to reinforce as required,

Not sure what glass fibre resin you used but most resin goes a greenish colour as it cures and hardens and you can see the matting you've laid down go green, this is a good time before it hardens completely to trim a lot of the excess matting off the edges with a stanley knife it's called, duh, "green trimming" and can save a lot of time and is easier than trimming the remaining hardened glass later.

Yeah I used woven matt 180 grams. Now I know that's just insain! No way are you going to get anything resembling a corner with it.
I was told epoxy and glass mats dont work together. I dont think there will be a next time soon, but you never know, so when it happens I will look into the mats.

Its been a good learning experience though!

Keep up the good work, plus rep

Thanks and thank you for all the tips! Greately appreciated !

[ASPHIAX]

Ok, Here is another weekend update.
Finally a good day after all the setbacks timewize.

Rebuilding the warp Nacelles (the other ones were just tryouts)

Thinner, sharper, more according to the designs, time well worth!

with the little coverpieces around the reservoirs its going to be good wiorking the depron.

And directly into the paint. probably not going to be able to see the backwall with the gigawatts in leds I am going to put it , lol

Also my plexiplate for the mdf baseplate finally arrived ! gonna saw it up tomorrow

Also was able to think my way out of the lcars fancontroller and designed the whole bottomsaucer depron work.

Finally a good day, hope to have one tomorrow also!
Laterz
ASPHIAX

[ASPHIAX]

Kim to the Captain ...
Janeway : Yes mr Kim
Kim : Good news from engineering mam, we are ready for a pressure test of the new warp nacelles.
Janeway : well then mr Kim, by all means go ahead !
Kim : Pressure test beginning in 5...
4...
3...
3...
1...
Mark ...

Janeway : Ehh I am no expert but shouldnt there be a glowing phenomenon coming from the nacelles ?
Kim : Let me try re-calibrating the Molex converter and adjust the PSU Output by bypassing all non-essential SATA stations ...
Janeway : I am waiting ..
Kim : AHHH ... Succes !!!

ASPHIAX : Please to report a two hour full leak test !

Pfew ...

[BS Mods]

Oh wow that looks really fricken cool!

It's looking good - can't wait to see it done.

[ASPHIAX]

Here is a short update on the LCARS Fancontroller.

I have had to make compromises due to time stress. Will not be using different coulour leds in this version (ther will be a multicolour version somewhere in the future!!!) Also the on/off/reset buttons will not be implemented, but they will be present in the Lian-Li mediabay that will be fitted in the foot of the case.

Received the vinyl sticker from dennis from significs.nl. Works like a charm although I was fiddling around with it a bit as this was the first time i ever fitted a sticker like this.
Think it looks good !!!

My camera does not display the correct light ratio's between the fancontroller and the panel. the controller is easy readible "in real life". Colour is the same just a tad less bright.