Watercooling questions

[mDust]

Best coolant in the world?: distilled water from your local grocery store. But make sure it is 100% steam distilled and not filtered water. Then just add a biocide to that, or drop a piece of silver in the res.
And yes, that series loop you drew up looks like it will work better.
I'd recommend the weldon #3 or #4 for your acrylic res. It's made specifically for welding acrylic to acrylic. If you can't get it locally, TAP plastics sells it online cheaper than anyone else as far as I could see. UPS should be delivering mine later today.

Other thoughts:
The rad fans will be exhausting out the front right? It doesn't make sense to dump the combined CPU/GPU heat onto your HDDs and the rest of your hardware.
A series loop will probably work better with small rads because a single 120 rad may not be able to handle your GPU while it's gaming.
If the pump is after the blocks, make sure there is water through the tubing and blocks down to the pump before the pump starts. Dry-running a pump, even for a short time can kill it.
Get some high speed fans and a fan controller for your rads. It's better to turn high-power fans down to quiet them than to have low-power fans that can't be turned up to properly cool your loop. If you really want to get the best fans, look for fans with a high 'static-pressure'. The higher the better for a rad fan.
If this is your first time with water cooling, DON'T attempt to make your own blocks...it will likely go badly.
That's all I can think of at the moment.

[diluzio91]

thats some good advice with the cooling... i was thinking of doing a push pull with the fans... that makes alot more sense to push the air out the front, also, ill be using a 4 port controller that will be stealthed into the front, the fans that will be on the outside of the comp will be cooler master blue LED fans, and for the back fans, i havn't decided yet... something inexpensive (under $10 per fan) and powerful... hmm.... possibly even these

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103052

water block i picked is this
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835708019


My final dilemma, i cannot find a decent waterblock for an ATI 5770 that dosn't cost a fortune... any help?

[mDust]

My final dilemma, i cannot find a decent waterblock for an ATI 5770 that dosn't cost a fortune... any help?

Start saving pennies!
Full coverage GPU water blocks are expensive when they first come to market and are expensive 5 years later when the card they were designed for is completely discontinued. Cost is one of the reasons water cooling is not completely mainstream 2 decades after a bunch of nerds in their basement started fooling around with it. That and the average Joe can't be trusted to touch it without voiding half a dozen warranties.

[diluzio91]

rats... http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10...l=g30c309s1075 looks like thats the one...

[SXRguyinMA]

I've got a couple rads, a block, pump, and other goodies for sale, LMK if you're interested. look @ my link in the for sale section

[diluzio91]

lol, new question, alot of the stuff i have been looking at varies between 3/8 and 1/2, to go from one to the other is it just as simple as changing out the barbs? i kind of want to use compression fittings for some parts so i dont have to do any worm drive bands or zip ties. thoughts?

[Starlite KNight]

Get adapters to change from one diameter to the other.

As for GPU blocks, you can get a universal block and some heat sinks. Something like an MCW60.

[mDust]

lol, new question, alot of the stuff i have been looking at varies between 3/8 and 1/2, to go from one to the other is it just as simple as changing out the barbs? i kind of want to use compression fittings for some parts so i dont have to do any worm drive bands or zip ties. thoughts?

Yep, you can swap out 3/8" dia G1/4 fittings with 1/2" G1/4 fittings no problem. The G1/4 is the pipe thread size...most water cooling parts use G1/4 as a standard. As long as all your parts use the same threading, you can swap any size diameter fittings/hose. It's a good idea to keep all your fittings the same diameter to keep the water flowing smoothly throughout the whole loop.

Edit: Speaking of thread sizes, for your custom res, you'll need a BSPP 1/4 19tpi tap for the threads where your fittings screw in. These are a bit difficult to find and you'll probably only find them online. Otherwise, use a local standard and get a fitting that matches it. NPT 20tpi and BSPP 19tpi are not compatible and will leak.

[diluzio91]

I think i should be ok for the fittings on the res... my stepdad (AHQP) works at a pattern shop and has just about everthing for threads you can think of... so ill order 2 less fittings than i think i will need and go from there.

[x88x]

Speaking from experience, I would not recommend cooling a hot CPU and GPU with just 2x120 of rad space. While it will work, it will run pretty hot (my loop stayed at a constant temp in the low 60's at idle, iirc). What you could do is swap the placement of the res and the top rad, and put in a 2x120 or 2x140 rad in the top of the case (in addition to the lower 1x120). I would also add another recommendation to run the res directly into the pump. This makes it much easier to deal with when you're filling the loop, and ensures that your pump is never running dry. As a lost note, I would recommend using a non-conductive coolant instead of distilled water. Yes, the thermal properties may not be quite the same, but it's worth it, imo, for the peace of mind that if you have a leak you don't run the risk of frying your system. I use the Feser One coolant; it runs about $20/litre.